Mosaic Coaster Base Square

square mosaic coaster base

Square Mosaic Coaster Base is made from cherry hardwood right here in the USA. The square base is 4 inches wide and 3/16 inches thick. They are cut out with a laser, so the sides have a natural burnt wood color that could be lacquered. Note that the wood is not recessed to form a border for your mosaic. Instead, your mosaic should extend to the edge of the coaster so that the finished coaster looks like a fragment of an ancient mosaic. This is easiest to do when you use tile without a heavy embossed pattern on the underside, and for this reason, we recommend the 12mm Elementile Recycled Glass Mosaic Tile for use with the coasters.

Weldbond adhesive or another high quality PVA glue is recommended for attaching tiles to the coaster base, and there are several options for grouting your mosaic coaster. You can press the tiles closely together instead of leaving a gap, but that requires much more time and effort than leaving an irregular gap and then grouting the mosaic. With an irregular grout gap of 1/16 inch or less, you can use almost every piece of tile you cut because it does not have to be exact. You can also use regular sanded grout to grout it.

Mosaic Art Projects Using Coaster Bases

Product Specifications

  • 1 piece hardwood cherry square coaster base.
  • wood pattern is natural and varies by piece.
  • width: 4 inches.
  • thickness: 3/16 inches.
  • laser cut edges (natural burnt wood finish).
  • unvarnished, unlacquered.
  • made in America
  • Removable paper tape protects the best face of the coaster.
  • The reverse side of the coaster may have occasional singes from the cutting laser, but these are superficial and can be covered by mosaic.

Compatibility

Any type of glass mosaic tile could be used with these, but there is no border on the coaster, so your mosaic will go all the way to the edge. If you use a type of glass tile that has coarse embossing or bevels on the underside, then these might look odd at the edge of the mosaic. It is also more difficult to cut a tile into small pieces if the bottom has an embossed pattern. For these reasons, the coasters are best covered with stained glass or the 8mm and 12mm sizes of recycled glass mosaic tile by Elementile. We prefer Elementile to stained glass because stained glass tends to form sharper edges when cut. Whatever tile you decide to use, make sure you file off any sharp edges at the sides of the mosaic using a rough stone or marble file.

Instructions For Using The Coaster Bases For Detailed Mosaic Art

The coaster bases can be used any way you want, including simple projects for children with tiles glued randomly with variable grout spacing, and these make great first-time projects because they are small and do not require as much time and material. However, it is possible to create a more sophisticated mosaic design on the coaster using these instructions. Due to the limited space provided by the coaster, one of the most important steps is making sure you can cut tile small enough to render the smallest detail of your design and modifying your design if necessary:

  1. Find a design or picture. Google Images is a great source of photos, images, patterns, models to draw from.
  2. Draw a simple cartoon outline of your design.
  3. Try cutting up some tile and arranging it on the cartoon to see how it looks.
  4. Pay special attention to the smallest detail in your design.
  5. If it is not possible to cut tile that small, or the pieces seem too tedious to work with, then simplify your design.
  6. Note that when you start using glue, it will be easier to arrange small pieces because they will not move around as unexpectedly. Tweezers also help.
  7. Once you have you have verified that your design is not too detailed to be rendered in tile, then sketch the cartoon on the coaster in pencil.
  8. You can darken your pencil sketch with a Sharpie brand marker so that glue does not rub it off once you start working.
  9. Wipe Weldbond glue over the face of the coaster and allow to dry to seal the wood. Use a very thin coat to avoid warping the coaster from the moisture in the glue! Remember, the reason you are sealing the coaster in the first place is to avoid warping it later when you use lots of glue for the tiles. Use two light coasts and allow to dry thoroughly between coats.
  10. Start tiling your design from the center and working to the edges.
  11. Leaving an irregular grout gap of 1/16 inch or less is much easier than fitting the tile tightly together.
  12. At the edge of the coaster, cut the tile so that it fits flush with the edge. You can place a tile on the coaster, mark where it should be cut with a Sharpie marker before gluing and then make the cut.
  13. Use the fine side of a marble file or a piece of rough stone to rub the edge of the cut tile so that the edge is not as sharp.
  14. After the glue has dried (preferably for 48+ hours) grout your mosaic with sanded grout.
  15. We recommend sealing the edges and bottoms of the coasters to protect from spills and condensation that could split or warp the wood.
  16. Deft Clear Wood finish in a spray can is sold by Home Depot and can be used for this.

How Much Tile Do I Need For The Coaster Base?

The top surface of a 4-inch square coaster base has only 16 square inches (0.1 square feet) in area. This means you could cover it with 56 to 72 of the 12mm Elementile or 113 to 162 of the 8mm Elementile depending on how you cut and space the tile. In either case, one bag of tile would be more than enough to cover the coaster. However, you will want to order more than that to account for the cutting waste, possibly twice as much if you are fitting the tile exactly with no grout gap.

How To Make Mosaic Art

For more advice on designing your mosaic project or mounting, cutting, and grouting tile, please see our page of Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions or our Mosaic Information Guide, which lists instructional pages described by topic. We also post new articles about making mosaics at our How to Mosaic Blog.

Economy Artist Palette Knife 1 Piece

The Economy Artist Palette Knife is a steel blade in a wooden handle and was made for spreading and mixing paint. We use them for spreading and manipulating thinset mortar and mosaic adhesives. Note that thinset, grout, and other concrete products are mildly caustic and therefore corrosive to steel and other metals. What this means is that you should take extra care to clean and dry your knives after use and not let them soak overnight even though you are worn out from a full day in the studio. You should also be prepared for the tools to rust and wear out over time, much sooner than ordinary trowels and putty knives, which are made of thicker steel. All that being said, many tools in the studio and workshop have a limited working life and yet are indispensable. The palette knife is extremely useful for detailed mosaic work, especially when pressing non-flat found objects such as seashells and artifacts into thinset mortar.

Economy Artist Palette Knife

  • Steel blade mounted in a wooden handle
  • approximately 8 inches in length
  • subject to rusting by mortars and grouts

Safety

The blade is not sharpened in the manner of ordinary knives, but it is a thin pieces of steel that is sharp enough to cut if handled carelessly.

How To Make Mosaics

For more advice on designing your mosaic project or mounting, cutting, and grouting tile, please see our page of Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions or our Mosaic Information Guide, which lists instructional pages described by topic. We also post new articles about making mosaics at our How to Mosaic Blog.

Economy Artist Palette Knife 5-Piece Set

Economy Artist Palette Knife Set

The Economy Artist Palette Knife Set is five different sizes of steel knives with wooden handles that were made for spreading and mixing paint. We use them for spreading and manipulating thinset mortar and mosaic adhesives. Note that thinset, grout, and other concrete products are mildly caustic and therefore corrosive to steel and other metals. What this means is that you should take extra care to clean and dry your knives after use and not let them soak overnight even though you are tired from a full day in the studio. You should also be prepared for the tools to rust and wear out over time, much sooner than ordinary trowels and putty knives, which are made of thicker steel. All that being said, many tools in the studio and workshop have a limited working life, and yet they are indispensable. The palette knives are extremely useful for detailed mosaic work, especially when setting non-flat found objects such as seashells and artifacts into thinset mortar.

Economy Artist Palette Knife Set

  • Steel blades mounted in wooden handles
  • 5 pieces, each with a different style of blade
  • longest knife ~8.5 inches
  • shortest knife ~6.875 inches
  • subject to rusting by mortars and grouts

Safety

The blades are not sharpened in the manner of ordinary knives, but they are thin pieces of steel that are sharp enough to cut if handled carelessly.

How To Make Mosaics

For more advice on designing your mosaic project or mounting, cutting, and grouting tile, please see our page of Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions or our Mosaic Information Guide, which lists instructional pages described by topic. We also post new articles about making mosaics at our How to Mosaic Blog.

Frequently Asked Mosaic Questions

 

BEGINNERS | GROUT | INDOOR-OUTDOOR | ADHESIVE | SURFACES | TESSERAE | CUTTING | METHOD | PATTERNS + PROJECTS | SEALING

Frequently Asked Mosaic Questions

Our frequently-asked mosaic questions page contains tons of information concerning mosaic materials and techniques, grouts, glues, mosaic tables, cutting tile, outdoor mosaics and related topics. Choose a topic category from the menu bar above, which will take you to section that includes MOST of the questions that relate to that particular subject. Or you can just scroll down through the list and browse (recommended).

If you have questions about an order or how to use the store please visit our Help page or Contact Us.

See our Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information for questions regarding reproducing this information and the responsibilities of anyone using this information to make mosaics. Our information is not intended to be a substitute for manufacturer’s instructions or using standard safety practices such as wearing gloves, dust masks or safety glasses. These items are available on our tools category.
BEGINNERS
GROUT
INDOOR-OUTDOOR
ADHESIVE
SURFACES
TESSERAE
CUTTING
DIRECT-INDIRECT METHODS
SEALING
MOSAIC PATTERNS and PROJECTS

How do I start mosaicing right now?

For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:
  • Draw a simple “cartoon” (outline) on the surface. You can copy one from a coloring book or your favorite pattern of china or fabric if you aren’t an artist
  • Decide what size tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design. Lay a few tiles down just to make sure the colors look right together.
  • Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time with Weldbond. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8 inch or less.
  • After the glue cures for 24 hours, grout the mosaic with regular bathroom tile grout.
  • For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on mesh (by gluing sparingly with Weldbond), or you can pick up the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the next step would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and press the sheet of mosaic onto the glue or cement.
For an outdoor project or a project subjected to moisture, you should probably use thinset (a type of sticky cement with polymers added for strength and water resistance. We now sell 2 lb containers of thinset. For larger quantities check out the local building store. You should also seal the mosaic with a tile and grout sealer from your local hardware store. You can find more information about making a mosaic by following the link.
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What safety precautions do I need to take?

Making mosaics requires basic shop safety practices:
  • Wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout.
  • Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children.
  • Avoid breathing the dust when mixing grout.
  • Wear rubber dishwashing gloves when grouting to avoid irritating your skin.
  • Don’t overload patio tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy).
  • You should also make sure that the table frame can support the overall weight.
These items are available on our tools category.
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How do you grout a mosaic?

Learn to grout mosaic art
Learn how to grout mosaic art in this tutorial.
Mix the grout according to instructions on package and avoid breathing dust. Spread the grout into the cracks. Wipe off the excess grout. Use a sponge instead of a rag because the rag will catch on any sharp edges. Don’t try to wipe it perfectly clean all at once. Rinse out the sponge after each pass. Make sure your sponge isn’t dripping water after you rinse it out. Wipe flat across the surface. When cleaning the excess off, take care not to erode the grout from between the tiles. Keep the surface damp as the grout cures or it will crack. Look at our in-depth grout tutorial for pictures of each step of the process.
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How can I learn about grouts and how to grout?

You can learn how to grout from our How To Grout Tutorial. It’s the same techniques and materials used for bathroom tile. If you were ever have a question that we haven’t covered here at our website, you can always ask at you local building material store or look at a basic book on home improvement if you need pictures.
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Is there anything special about mosaic grouts?

No. The grouts and sealers you need are the same ones used for ordinary bathroom tiling, and the techniques of applying are the same. For outdoor mosaics, or mosaics which will be exposed to moisture, using thinset as the adhesive and grout is recommended.
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How much grout do I need for my mosaic?

How much grout you need depends on three things:
  • the area of the mosaic = L x W
  • the thickness of the tiles
  • the gaps between the tiles
If the tiles are spaced with all gaps under 1/4″, then you should be able to cover the entire mosaic of 18″ x 18″ with 2 lbs of grout. This is assuming your tiles are under 3/8″ thick. I always set my mosaic on an old shower curtain or piece of plastic to catch all the wet grout that falls off the side as I’m spreading it. That way, I can scoop it up and use it. Otherwise you need a lot more grout because most is wasted. Note that a standard grout gap is 1/16″. If you keep your grout gaps small and uniform like this, you will use less grout, and it will be easier to grout. If your grout gaps are wider than 1/8″, then it is difficult to wipe away the excess grout without eroding the grout from between the tiles.
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Do I need grout with sand in it?

Unless you are trying to patch hairline cracks, the answer is emphatically yes. Sand gives the grout strength like gravel gives strength to concrete.
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What color grout should I use in my mosaic?

Probably black. Otherwise, choose a grout color which contrast the colors of the mosaic tiles so that the design is highlighted. If there isn’t a strong contrast between the grout and the tiles, then the individual tiles are lost to the eye, and the mosaic looks more like an ordinary picture and less like a mosaic made from pieces. I avoid situations like gray grout with gray tile. A nice red-brown grout works better in that instance. The key concept is color contrast – we receive many emails from people who regret having used white grout on their project.
Soyuz Space Capsule Mosaic Art
Soyuz Space Capsule Mosaic Art
The mosaic above was grouted using black grout. The black doesn’t pull the eye away from the glass. The lines it creates on the space capsule add to the design, such as by showing the different segments of the solar panels. Sometimes the black grout can even look like line art if you make the mosaic look like an illustration.
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I saw some clear grout. Where do I get this?

Grout is concrete, and therefore opaque – You probably saw silicone sealant which should really only be used as an adhesive.
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What’s the best color grout to use?

Usually black. Here’s why: The purpose of grout in visual terms is to make each tile distinct like a pencil line in a watercolor. Black contrasts well with most colors, causing the tiles to really pop. Avoid pure white unless you are trying to make something that looks like a little kid’s summer camp project. Some mosaic artists use white grout with white tile to make a clean flat look, but for most projects white is not the way to go because it will outshine all of your tiles. Most building material stores such as Lowe’s and Home Depot cary about 30+ colors of grout. Bring a few of each color of your tiles with you, and you can pick the color grout that works best with all the tile.
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How do I dye grout? Where do I get colored grout?

Color is best provided by the tile, not the grout. In terms of a visual element, the grout is supposed to act like a thin gray pencil line that just makes each tile distinct. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a mosaic that used colored grout that wouldn’t have looked better if all tile had been used instead. For example, let’s say you wanted red tile in pink grout. A better way to get the same color effect would be to mix in a few pink tiles randomly throughout the red tiles, or maybe use a few lines of pink tiles. Often this means you have to cut your tile just a little bit smaller. There are mineral concrete dyes sold at building material stores, and these can be used, although the range of colors is limited to black, brown, gray, terracotta, etc. Vegetable dyes such as food colors will not be permanent. If grout of a specific color is required, the best thing to do is go to a local home improvement center and compare grout swatches against your work.
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My grout color is wrong! How do I fix it?

If your mosaic is in a wet location and the grout is used to actually seal out water, then you will need to use a grout remover tool such as we sell to remove the grout and regrout with another color. However, there is an easier fix for indoor mosaics where water isn’t an issue. Artists acrylic paint can be used to paint the surface of the grout. For mosaics made from smooth glass tile, this can be done by taking a rag and wiping the paint onto the face of the mosaic similar to how you grout. The paint sticks to the grout, but the glass tile is wiped clean while the paint is still wet. Note that you can’t do this with rough or porous tile (tumbled stone, unglazed porcelain, etc.) because the paint will absorb into the tile. For these mosaics, you would need to use a small artists paint brush and carefully paint the grout lines.
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How do I dispose of grout waste?

Never pour grout down your drains. Grout is concrete, and that isn’t good for your plumbing. Instead, pour your waste in an old coffee can or milk jug and allow it to harden. In a day or so, you can pour off the water and throw the container away. For easy cleanup, I always do my grouting in the backyard instead of indoors.
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Why did my grout crack?

Grout can crack for a number or reasons:
  • If the backer is thin enough to flex slightly, even a miniscule amount.
  • If the grout was allowed to dry out while it was trying to cure. Grout curing is a hydration reaction, not dehydration, and water is being chemically bound. Sometimes bare wood can suck the moisture out of the grout, but usually there is enough glue on the wood to prevent this. Misting can help, but misting sometimes leaches the color out of the grout.
  • Wood was used instead of plywood. Natural wood sometimes splits as it ages. Plywood is less prone to splitting. (Note: use for indoor/non-wet mosaics only.) Cabinet grade plywood is best to use in this scenario.
  • Using unsanded grout. Unsanded grout should only be used to fill hairline cracks. Normal grout gaps of 1/8″ require sanded grout for adequate strength.
I always use thinset for attaching and grouting. It never cracks and has polymers added to allow it to flex slightly without cracking. When I do use glue, it is always Weldbond, which is a white PVA adhesive.
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Can I make an outdoor mosaic without grouting?

It is possible to make a permanent attachment with thinset without filling in the gaps. Depending on how much thinset is used, it would loook rough in the gaps. If more thinset is used, the space between will look better. Too much thinset and it will squeeze to the surface of the objects and make a mess. The appropriate amount of thinset is based on the size and shape of the pieces you are using. You have to make a functional and aesthetic assessment based on your tile and design. The same applies for determining what size gap to leave between the pieces. I recommend making a small sample of what you intend to do on a piece of plywood of 1 to 2 sq. ft. This will allow you to work out any issues with your materials and method before you commit to the large project. This “extra work” nearly always saves days of frustration in the end.
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My grout started cracking and crumbled. What did I do wrong?

Make sure you mix the grout according to instructions on the package with sufficient water and stir it thoroughly. It should be like a moist dough when you start with no dry material or lumps. Also, you shouldn’t let the grout dry out as it cures. Keep it covered with plastic if necessary or lightly mist with a spray bottle, taking care not to let drops accumulate on the surface of the mosaic.
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I grouted my stone mosaic and now all the stones are the same color as the grout. What can I do?

You should always seal stone tiles and unglazed ceramic tiles with a tile and grout sealer BEFORE you grout. This is necessary for all porous materials that can be stained by grout. You should seal using a Stone Enhancer instead of tile and grout sealer if you want to darken and enhance the natural color of the stone. Both of these products are available at local building material stores. Ask there. For a stone mosaic that is already stained, you might want to try some of the muratic acid that contractors use to clean cement from bricks. Also ask at the building material store about this product.
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Can I add a latex additive or polymer additive to make my grout harder?

Yes, but it isn’t necessary. If you want extremely hard grout, then you should probably just use thinset, which is cement with polymers added to make it sticky and give it added strength.
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Can I set my tiles in grout?

No, grout isn’t sticky enough and makes a poor adhesive. If you want to set your tiles in concrete instead of glue, then use thinset, which is concrete with polymers added to make it sticky and give it added strength. You can buy a large bag of thinset from a building material store relatively cheaply. Here are some instructions I wrote for using thinset for detailed mosaic artwork.
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How do I mosaic an outdoor mosaic such as a patio floor, fountain or birdbath?

For the most part, our mosaic instructions are written for making indoor mosaics with small details. This is why we recommend the “glue-then-grout” method using Weldbond glue, a water-based adhesive with no fumes. With proper grouting and sealing, these indoor mosaics should last for generations, if not thousands of years. However, mosaics for outdoor walls, patios, fountains, birdbaths and pools are more vulnerable to moisture penetration, especially over time, and Weldbond should be avoided. While a solvent-based glue such as Liquid Nails can be used for mosaics on outdoor walls, it is probably best to avoid glues altogether and use thinset bonding mortar to attach the tiles, especially if the mosaic is in a pool, patio or fountain. Thinset bonding mortars are a cement product. Currently, we are using the Versabond brand of thinset bonding mortar for outdoor mosaics. This thinset or another brand should be available at most any building material store. Whether or not thinset mortar is used the attach the tiles, you should grout and seal your mosaic as described elsewhere in our instructions. We also have more detailed information about thinset here.

We recommend the following book for more information on outdoor mosaics: Outdoor Mosaic: Original Weather-Proof Designs to Brighten Any Exterior Space by Emma Biggs, Tessa Hunkin You can also ask questions about outdoor tiling at the building material store.Also, the labels on the grouts and adhesives usually have recommendations like”indoor use only” or “water-resistant for outdooruse” or things like that, so that you can always rule out obvious mistakes.
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How do I make an outdoor mosaic last?

After the grout cures for 48 hours, seal the mosaic with tile and grout sealer from a local building material store.
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I want to put a mosaic on an aluminum table for outdoors. Is this possible?

Mosaic materials are heavy. Iron patio furniture is a better candidate because aluminum furniture is often thin and flimsy. You would need to make sure that the legs could hold the weight and the top is sturdy. If the aluminum top flexes even slightly, it will crack the grout. There can also be issues with the grout reacting chemically to aluminum if it directly contacts it.
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The mosaic birdhouse I made started coming apart very soon after I mounted it outdoors. What did I do wrong?

We get emails about these falling apart all the time. If I had to make one, I would make it from foam-core tile backer board, as can be bought at local building material stores, and I would use thinset mortar to cement the pieces together. You can use concrete backer board to make the house if weight isn’t an issue.
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Can I use glass mosaic tile outdoors?

Yes, glass tile is non-porous and impervious to moisture penetration and therefore frost-proof. That means glass is actually more durable than materials like ceramic tile and stone, which can be flaked away by freezing water. The weak points in an outdoor mosaic are the grout and adhesives, and the best way to protect those is by using a tile and grout sealer from the building material store.
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Can I leave my mosaic ungrouted?

If the mosaic isn’t outdoors or in a wet environment, then you can leave it ungrouted. Outdoor mosaics should be grouted so that water can’t get between the tiles and freeze. Similarly, mosaics in showers and fountains and other environments should be sealed so that moisture doesn’t degrade the adhesive over time. Indoor mosaics can be ungrouted. Note that even outdoor mosaics can be “ungrouted” if the tile is pressed into thinset mortar that is thick enough to squeeze up between the tile and fill most of the gap. That is how ancient Greek and Roman mosaics were made.
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What is the best glue for indoor mosaics?

Weldbond. It’s water based, has no fumes, dries clear and water resistant, bonds to most any surface, is non-toxic and cleans up easily. However, we prefer to use thinset bonding mortar for floors.
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What’s the best glue for marbles and round stones?

For round objects, avoid glue and press them into thinset mortar.
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What’s the best adhesive for outdoor mosaics?

It is probably best to avoid adhesives altogether and use thinset bonding mortar (a sticky concrete) instead. Liquid Nails Adhesive would probably be best for outdoors, if you have to use an adhesive. It’s thick and tarry and bonds to anything, but it is solvent based and the fumes are an issue. We use Weldbond adhesive for mosaics for indoor mosaics where water or rain isn’t an issue because there aren’t any fumes and clean up is much easier. We have used Weldbond successfully on several outdoor projects, but these pieces were grouted and sealed very well, and they were vertical surfaces that didn’t have water standing on them. Liquid Nails Adhesive might have been a better choice, but thinset mortar is recommended instead of any adhesive.
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Should I use mastic or thinset mortar for my mosaic?

Thinset bonding mortar should be used for outdoor mosaics and mosaics where water is an issue, such as shower floors, pools and fountains. Mastic is used to attach ceramic tile to bathroom walls. For indoor artistic mosaics, we use Weldbond, which is a white PVA adhesive. Using Mastic on outdoor mosaics can lead to disastrous results.
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How do I use thinset?

You should read and follow the instructions on the package for mixing, handling and disposal. In brief, thinset is like grout and other concrete products. This means that the best place to mix them up is outside, and you should wear a dust mask if you have trouble mixing it up without creating a lot of dust. (Some artists merely stand upwind and mist it with a spray bottle until they get it mixed up.) Breathing silica (such as dust on a windy day) can have long term health effects on the lungs. I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it out to about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the bucket covered so that it doesn’t dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from time to time and a dry rag in my lap. We have very detailed instructions for using thinset here.
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How do I determine how much thinset to use for my found-object mosaic?

When using found objects, the best method is to adapt how much thinset you spread as you go along, for each piece or a small set of pieces. Be careful about using too much thinset, as it will squeeze to the surface of the objects and make a mess. As you are working, you will probably develop a rhythm in relation to the different pieces and their sizes relative to the amount of thinset you need. Also, when grouting, instead of trying to rub in then wipe off the grout, the typical method for flat tile, fill in the voids selectively with a grouting bag.
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I can only find thinset mortar in 50-pound bags. How can I use such a large bag without making a dusty mess?

I can only find thinset mortar in 50-pound bags. How can I use such a large bag without making a dusty mess? Buy a 5-gallon bucket with lid at the same store where you buy the thinset. Put the whole bag inside the bucket, bag and all. (Do not dump it in because that would create a lot of dust.) Slit the top of the bag open and scoop out thinset as you need it. You can use a plastic cup or scoop or soup ladel or whatever you have. The point is that you don’t try to pour the thinset. Keep the lid on the bucket so that humidity from the air doesn’t clump the thinset over time, and you can use the same bag for small projects for years.
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How do I put a mosaic on a wall? Won’t the tiles slide off while I’m gluing them?

Glue your mosaic tiles to fiberglass mesh at your work table. (Make sure your table is covered with construction plastic or parchment paper, such as used in baking, so that you don’t glue everything to the table. Most people cut the mesh in smaller sections, usually 12 inch x 12 inch, because it is difficult to handle sheets of mosaic larger than 1 sq foot. Most people use Weldbond (sparingly) to attach tiles to mesh. When the mesh is dry in about 24 to 48 hours, you are ready to mount this assembly to the wall. This is done by spreading thinset or mastic or Weldbond on the wall itself and pressing the mesh onto the wall. After this cures, in about 48 hours, you can grout the mosaic in place.
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I grouted my mosaic and then noticed that glue was showing. What did I do wrong?

You need to always clean up excess glue before you grout. I also use the following technique when using Weldbond indoors or outdoors. After the glue has dried for a day or two, I come back and mist the mosaic with water. After about 10 minutes, any traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. I then take a razor knife like a box cutter or exacto knife and trim away the excess glue. This cleaning step ensures that there will be no glue sticking up and not covered by grout.
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Can Weldbond be used on glass mosaic tile?

Yes. It bonds to most any material.
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How can I use Weldbond to attach tiles to mesh for my shower if you don’t recommend Weldbond for wet mosaics?

Weldbond is the adhesive commonly used to attach tiles to the mesh. The problem is that some novice users get adhesive on the sides of the tile. This means that the grout can’t properly cover the adhesive, and water/moisture can wick over time to the back of the tile. However, if the gluing and grouting are done correctly, and the mosaic is sealed with grout or concrete sealer, the mosaic can last for a long time. I use Weldbond sparingly so that there is some surface of the tile that can bond directly to the cement, thus making a more durable bond. I use thinset (sticky concrete) to attach the mosaic to the wall. I also use the same thinset for grouting. Some people avoid the whole issue of water penetrating to the glue by using paper for the reverse method and not using mesh. In the reverse method, the mosaic is laid out face down on sticky paper like clear contact paper, or mosaic mounting film. When finished, the sheet is pressed into thinset, and after the thinset hardens, the contact paper is peeled off. People also use brown mosaic paper instead of contact paper. The mosaic it attached to the paper using dilute glue like Elmers, and after the mosaic is attached to the wall, the paper is misted with water and peeled off. I hope this helps!
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I want to mosaic a fiberglass sculpture. What adhesive should I use?

We mosaic on cement bases, so we use thinset (sticky concrete) for attaching tiles. For fiberglass bases, most artists recommend an epoxy or a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails Outdoor Formula. You should test your adhesive on the fiberglass substrate by gluing the tile in an inconspicuous place on the sculpture. Keep in mind that you are testing not only how well the adhesive bonds but also how easy it is to work with and if it has bad fumes, etc. Note that some artist have reported using Weldbond, but I am not sure about that because Weldbond doesn’t bond to most plastics. As always, you should test adhesives by gluing on a tile and seeing how difficult it is to pry the tile off. Also, scuffing the surface with a coarse-grit sandpaper helps ensure a stronger bond.
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Why is it bad to get glue on the sides of my tile?

If a thin residue of glue sticks up above the grout, water can wick down the glue over time and cause the tile to pop off. Even if water isn’t an issue, it can still interfer with the grouting process and make the grout look messy.
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If the glue dries clear, how do I check to make sure there isn’t any on the sides of my tile before I grout my mosaic?

Mist the mosaic very well with water. Within a few minutes to ten minutes, any thin residue of PVA glue will start to turn white. You can use a box cutter or knife to scrape off the residue.
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What brand of thinset mortar do you use?

We use Versabond brand bought at Home Depot.
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How much water do I use to mix up small amounts of thinset?

We use 0.25 pounds of water per 1 pound of thinset. It’s a good idea to check the instructions and labeling on whatever material you buy before using it.
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Can I mosaic on wood or plywood?

Indoors, these materials can be used with no problems. Outdoor use requires some thought and preparation, and I would definitely avoid wood outdoors if possible. I would seal the back and edges with water seal or an oil-based paint. Fine mosaic work takes an investment in time and materials. It only makes sense to mosaic on a backing that is resistant to moisture and decay. Thus the best material to use for an outdoor mosaic is foam-core tile backer board from a local building material store. It is cheap, easy to cut, and resists the elements. Wood and even plywood make great backings for DRY INDOOR mosaics such as mirror frames and wall plaques. For these indoor projects, we recommend using cabinet grade plywood.
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Can I mosaic wooden furniture for outdoors?

Only if you don’t care whether or not it lasts. Outdoor mosaics should be on concrete or concrete backer board. Concrete backer board can be purchased cheaply at local building material stores and can be used as the mosaic surface in metal patio tables. This is the best way to make an outdoor mosaic table. This article, Materials and Methods for Outdoor Mosaic Tables, can give you an overview.
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Can I make a mosaic on top of my formica counter top?

People have done so, but if the mosaic is an interesting design, you’ll probably want to take the formica off and use a base that is sure to last. The engineer in me hates the idea of wasting time and material on something that might not last. Also, I’m not sure what adhesive you would use to bond to formica because the top of formica is made to resist things sticking to it.
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Can I mosaic directly on the brick outside of a building?

The brick is fine, unless it is old and slightly crumbling, and then you might need to buff off the loose material. I always scrub exterior walls with a rotary wire brush and plaster the surface smooth and level with thinset a few days before tiling.
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I want to put a mosaic on top of my patio table. What material should I use for the top?

Foam-core tile backer boards are best because they are relatively lightweight compared to concrete backer board. Brands include Schluter Kerdi-board, USG Durock, Laticrete Hydroban, Johns Manville GoBoard, and Wedi board. I suspect USG Durock will be the most affordable in most places. You can use concrete backer board, but make sure that you don’t overload the table or make it too heavy or unstable. Whatever you use, it is best if the rim of the table covers the edge of the mosaic or at least the backer. This article, Materials and Methods for Outdoor Mosaic Tables, can give you an overview.
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I want to mosaic on wooden furniture indoors. What do I need to do to the surface of the wood before I start?

I’ve mosaiced on raw wood and wood with stain, but not on top of wood sealer. I think raw wood is best because that probably allows the best bonding of glue and grout. If you’re concerned about the possibility of the furniture warping over the years due to humidity, you can coat it with Weldbond. This seals the wood from moisture, but still provides a surface that is good for bonding. Some people mix in a little water with the Weldbond so that they can paint it on with a paintbrush. A few coats should ensure that the wood is sealed. Once that is dry, you can begin the mosaic. Another thing that you can due to help your piece last for generations is to seal the grout when you are done with a non-gloss grout sealer. I always use non-gloss because that doesn’t change the color or appearance of the mosaic the way that gloss sealers can.
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Can I mosaic on a plastic flower pot?

We don’t recommend plastic for backers. Even a sloppy half-hearted mosaic takes some work. Once you are done, you will be glad you spent a little bit of time to find a backer that will last.
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I want to make a mosaic backsplash. What do I use for the backing?

Concrete backer board from your local building material store. It’s cheap and can be cut and broken by scoring with a box cutter. Either glue the material on the backer board and mount the board to the studs in the wall or mount the board and glue mosaic material to the board. In the latter case, you might want to glue the tiles to fiberglass mesh and then glue the whole piece of mesh to the backer. In either case, you grout the tiles in place on the wall.
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Can I mosaic on my glass table top?

Mosaic tile and grout are heavy. Don’t create a safety problem by using glass as a base. Simply replace the glass with a piece of wood. People report that translucent Lexan can be used if you need a translucent base.
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If I make a mosaic on 1/2-inch concrete backer board, how do I mount it to an external wall?

Consider using foam-core tile backer board as an alternative to concrete backer board if weight is an issue. Regardless of the backer used, you need to frame and protect the edges. One solution is to have a local welder fabricate some frames from 3/4″ angle iron to fit around the edges of the mosaic. The frames can have mounting holes made from washers welded to the outside of the frame. The frame should be spray painted with multiple coat of outdoor paint in a matte color, preferably umber or something neutral depending on the color of the wall where they will be mounted. The mosaic is attached to the wall inside the frame with thinset or an outdoor construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails Outdoor formula.
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Should I use 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch concrete backer board?

The 1/4 inch backer board is too thin for floors and bends and punctures more easily. I only use 1/4″ when I laminate it to plywood.
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Can I mix glass and ceramic tiles?

As long as the colors look right, you can mix any materials, except that you need to make sure they are close to being the same thickness. You don’t have to wory about thickness if you are pressing them into wet concrete of course. On the other hand, a difference in thickness might add interest to a fine art mosaic not used as a surface.
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Can I use stone and glass mosaic tile together?

The two materials usually have different thickness. If you are pushing the tiles into concrete or mortar, then it doesn’t matter. If you are gluing to a surface, the difference in heights will be visible. This makes grouting a little more difficult, but it hasn’t stopped me from doing it on many of my pieces at the gallery.
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How do I use round marbles and stones in mosaics?

If you’re pushing them into wet concrete as you would for a stepping stone, then no problem. If you are gluing them to a surface and then grouting, make sure you use something thick and tarry like Liquid Nails brand adhesive. Also make sure that you use thicker tile around the marbles so they don’t stick out so far. Otherwise there is a danger that the marbles may pop off when you grout. I always wear grouting gloves and grout with my fingers. This allows me to remove all excess grout without bumping the marbles too much.
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How much tile do I need to cover my table or floor?

We have a Tile Calculator page in the top menu bar.
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Instead of normal tile, I want to make a mosaic from china and other materials of different thickness. How do I use materials of different thickness in a mosaic?

Actually, there is a good way to use the millefiori, china and other objects of different thickness. To use these materials, the best way is to use thinset bonding mortar (a type of sticky concrete) instead of glue. It’s available at building material stores. I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it out to about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber gloves and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the bucket covered so that it doesn’t dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from time to time and a dry rag in my lap. That way the thin pieces can have more concrete underneath, like in the “Plum Tree Mosaic.”
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I want to put a mosaic in the middle of my floor. Do my tiles in my mosaic need to be as thick as the tiles around it?

Yes and No. You want the surface to be even for safety and durability reasons, and the easiest way to do that is to do that is to use tile of the same thickness. You can use tile of different thickness if you build up the rest of the area with concrete or mortar. Keep in mind that thinset mortar contracts slightly as it cures, and so you would need to build up the area in advance of tiling.
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Should I use 3/8″ or 3/4″ vitreous in my large wall mosaic, and how should I install it?

The vitreous glass is highly recommended for cost, ease of cutting and the range of colors available. The 3/4″ is much more cost effective than the 3/8″ minis. The 3/4″ tile can be cut into quarters and yield four 3/8″ pieces. The method of attaching and even the choice of tile depends on how large the mosaic is going to be. That is determined in large part by the design or picture you want to create. Specifically, it depends on what is the smallest detail you want to depict in the mosaic. You shouldn’t try to depict any detail smaller than what you can render with a few tiles. This is the starting point.
  • Select preliminary design.
  • Look at smallest details in the design and decide if you can render that in a few tiles. Note: Vitreous tile is embossed with ridges on the back that make it difficult to use if you if you try to cut it up too small. I recommend experimenting with real tile to figure this out. It saves a lot of frustration.
  • Determine how large the design would have to be based on the results of #2.
  • See if the room can accommodate a mosaic that large or that small. Does it look right aesthetically at that size and work with the other design elements?
  • Determine method of installation. If the mosaic is large, then create it on mesh. If the mosaic is resonably small or medium size, create on a backer and mount the finished mosaic on the wall by drilling into the studs.
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How can I avoid ordering the wrong color tile?

The correct way to order tile is to make a small exploratory order to see what different colors look like NEXT TO EACH OTHER before you order full quantities for the project itself. (Never start the project with partial quantities due to the potential for batch variations.) It is nearly impossible to order five or six colors for a particular project and have all of the colors be correct, although some novices assume that they can. There are several reasons for this, and it is NOT just a question of computer graphics cards or the limitations of digital photography. Any fine-art painter will tell you that it is impossible to tell what a color will look like until it is applied to the canvas next to the other colors. Biopsychologists and human-factor engineers will tell you much the same thing. It really helps to have a small library of different colors and materials before you start. We carry sample boards, and can put together sample sets for you. This means it actually helps to have a few “wrong” colors lying aroung your studio. What is “wrong” for one mosaic, will be perfect for a later project. I’ve noticed time and again that I wouldn’t have been aware of this perfect color if I didn’t have it already lying around. Thank heaven for “wrong” tile.
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How can I order a sample board?

We don’t offer sample boards because tile colors vary by manufacturer batch. For a variety of economic and technical reasons, tile colors aren’t tightly controlled like the colors of paint and other products. Architectural suppliers pretend this problem doesn’t exist because they can afford to send a sample if needed before each order because the orders are typically for 50 sq ft or more. We do offer 10-item samples for the cost of postage. This way, we can provide samples from our current manufacturer batches on an as-needed basis without giving the false impression that colors are fixed consistently the way paint is.
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How do I choose the right colors for my project?

When starting any new mosaic project, try out different colors to see which work best. It helps to have odds and ends of different colors in small amounts as a “library” for exploring different colors. This is why it helps to have samples of extra colors lying around. If you don’t already have extra tile colors around, then ordering samples is a good idea, especially if your mosaic will be large. If you continue to do mosaics, it won’t be long before you have your own color library. I rarely complete a mosaic using all the tiles I originally ordered for it. I usually end up realizing that one of the sample colors I have lying around works better than what I had intended to use, and then I have to place a second or third order. I recommend making a small pilot order of small amounts of many different colors before making firm decisions about a larger order for the actual project. If some goes unused, it’s not a problem because these scraps serve as “seeds” for future ideas. If you are just beginning, you can order a starter kit and request that we ship specific colors you choose. To do so, paste the names of 12 colors of Kaleidoscope in the Special Instructions during checkout.
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It’s hard for me to decide on the colors I’ll need for my project, and I’m worried the colors I see online will not match the exact color of the tiles.

When choosing colors for a mosaic design, instead of trying to match the colors of a painting or picture, I take the colors I have available and lay them in various combinations on a sketch of the design. A color can look completely different based on what colors are around it. Even if computer images were completely accurate, you would still need to play with the tiles before you knew for sure which colors were right. The bottom line is that you should have a small amount of many different colors laying around to experiment with before you commit to any design. That’s why we sell sheets of 25 tiles. In general, I recommend that customers make a small “exploratory order” before ordering the full quantities for the project. If a person has never made a mosaic before, I also recommend that they make a small mosaic plaque on a piece of plywood before they do the larger project to work out materials and methods first. People regularly report that the “delay” of doing the small project often saves them days of labor or disastrous mistakes on the large project.
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I want to copy a painting, and I don’t see the colors I need. How do I find the exact colors I need?

As you’ve noticed, the color palette is limited. The only product that is good for matching colors exactly is smalti, such as we carry, and is also offered at www.dimosaico.com and www.smalti.com. On the other hand, I always think of mosaic as an exercise in working in a limited color pallet, and that is what makes the old mosaics so fascinating. I see more and more modern mosaics that are more or less reproductions of paintings or made to look like paintings in terms of color pallet. To me this art seems a little hollow in the sense that it has more technical resource than imagination. (I’m sure other people would disagree.)
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Is it possible to request labeled sheets when I place an order so I can keep a record of the colors I’m using?

Labeled sheets can actually be problematic. The sheet can completely be completely consumed while in the heat of an art project or lost while soaking the tile to remove paper. Here’s what we recommend: take the invoice and tape one tile on each color on the side of the invoice. The tiles only have to be in order. You don’t have to squeeze them beside each name. This has several advantages:
  • Your record isn’t nearly as like to be destroyed in the studio.
  • You not only have the name of the tile, you also have the date it was ordered. (This is important because colors vary over time, so you might need to know how long ago you ordered before assuming the color is the same.)
  • You have the price you paid for the color, which is important for cost comparisons or bidding on commissions.
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Where can I find brightly-colored glazed ceramic tile such as the 4 inch tiles used to tile bathrooms?

Brightly colored ceramic tiles could be bought at any building material store in the 1970s and even into the 1980s, but I think they are as rare as dodo birds now. People just don’t tile bathrooms in bright colors any more, so the factories stopped making them.
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How do I cut glass and glass mosaic tile?

You need a mosaic glass cutter that has two blades shaped like wheels. A regular tile nipper tends to crush most glass but can be used with certain types of vitreous glass mosaic tile.
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What tool do I need to cut smalti?

Mosaic glass cutter. A regular tile nipper tends to crush most glass.
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What tool do I need to cut porcelain, china and other dinnerware?

Hard dinnerware can be cut with a regular nipper, but a Compound Tile Nipper is best.
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What tool do I need to cut ceramic tile?

Tile Nipper.
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Can I cut glass mosaic tile with a tile nipper?

The wheeled glass cutter is better. It works like a tile nipper only it has wheel-shaped blades that allow it to cut glass cleaner instead of crushing it.
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How can I make straight cuts in vitreous tile with the mosaic glass cutter?

I can cut vitreous in equal halves and quarters fairly consistently with the mosaic glass cutter, although the glassier reds, oranges and yellows can be slightly more difficult. I notice that I am more likely to get a crecent-shaped cut if I allow the tile to rotate, and I expect some people might have less finger strength or flinch at the moment of cutting, so they might not get the same results for that reason alone. However, the most important piece of advice I can give is to cut with the tile upside down so that you can see the scoring on the bottom as you cut and make sure you aren’t positioning one blade on top of a ridge, which will almost always cause the tile to rotate in the blades at the moment of cutting.
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How can I cut curved shapes?

Look at any book on classical or Renaissance mosaics. They don’t use curved pieces. The artists make curved shapes by putting small pieces together.
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How do I cut exact shapes from mosaic tile?

Glass tile can be difficult to cut in a predictable shape due to the scoring on the backsides of the tiles. That is why you should cut the tiles upside down so that you can see how the embossed ridges might be affecting your cut. (Wear safety glasses as always.) Here’s the more important information: The pieces shouldn’t be perfect squares or triangle. The irregularity ensures a grout gap even when the tiles are pressed close together. More importantly, non-uniform squares will make the mosaic much more interesting visually than uniform squares. (Look at traditional mosaics if you doubt this.) Perfect squares make a mosaic look like it was made from a kit. A little irregularity makes a mosaic look more like hand-made art. Tiles should never be “shaped” or custom cut. Instead, cut up about 4 or 5 tiles, and then select the piece that is closest in shape to what you need. You will find that you work faster that way with much less stress.
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I can’t seem to cut the exact size or shape I need, what am I doing wrong?

Choosing the best piece out of 5 to 10 random pieces is much easier than trimming a single piece down to size, especially if the material being used is brittle or breaks unpredictably. Also, some tile such as vitreous glass has embossed patterns or ridges on the bottom of the tile to help the tile bond more securely to the cement, and these ridges can interfer with the blade of the cutter. When cutting these tiles, then hold them upside down as you cut so that you can see how the cutting blade is resting between or across the ridges. It also helps if you hold the tile firmly during cutting to prevent it from rotating.
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Cutting up all the pieces takes too long. How can I work faster?

Cutting up all the pieces takes too long. How can I work faster? One common mistake is to cut or trim each piece as you use it. This is slow and tedious in itself, and it also requires that you constantly pick up and put down the cutting tool. While some trimming is unavoidable, it is much easier to select what you need from handful of pieces that were already cut up “randomly” than it is to custom trim each piece. The only potential problem with cutting up tile randomly before you start arranging them is that you could end up with a lot of shapes and sizes that aren’t useable. Here is the procedure we use to minize unusable pieces:
  • Estimate the size and shape of the piece you need.
  • Cut up 3 or 4 (or 10) pieces in that size and shape range.
  • Use the piece that fits best or cut up 3 or 4 new candidates.
  • Keep the rejects in a tray and try to use these pieces in other places in the mosaic later.
  • Pay attention to the sizes and shapes of the rejects in your tray that you don’t seem to use as often.
  • Avoid cutting similar pieces.
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How do I cut stone mosaic tile?

Traditionally, mosaic stone is cut with a hammer and hardie (small anvil), but many people use a tile nipper. Here’s the method I use: Since the stone doesn’t break that cleanly, and the cuts often mar the finish of the stone, I design my mosaic so that as few pieces as possible have to be cut. Most pieces in the design are full squares, and the few pieces I have to cut are cut with a tile nipper or small hammer and small chisel. This means you should probably buy small pieces (such as 3/8″ as opposed to 9/16″) to make your design.
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How do I cut patterns from dinnerware without ruining the patterns?

Some porcelain dinnerware can be extremely hard. The Compound Nippers for Hard Tile take less force than the regular tile nippers, and so they may give you more control in your cuts. However, no compression tool can make continuous long cuts like a pair of scissors cutting paper. Even with the compound nippers, you will still be snipping off chunks one at a time and be at risk of breaking any pattern that might be on the dinnerware. Most pique assiette work features a pattern such as a flower or face that was carefully cut out, but notice that these select pieces are almost always surrounded by pieces of the same pattern that are broken more randomly. That should give you a clue about how the dinnerware was cut up: The artist cut up several identical plates before she got the pattern she needed for the centerpiece, and she used all her “scrap” for the surrounding tiles. The point is that you shouldn’t count on getting the piece you need from just one plate. Every time you snip, there is a chance that the plate will break in the wrong place and go right through the pattern. However, if you see a pique-assiette mosaic where the dinnerware patterns are more uniformly cut, you can assume one or more of the following:
  • The person used a wet saw (powersaw used by installers of ceramic tile).
  • The person discarded a large amount of scrap.
  • The dinnerware used just happened to break more predictably than most. (Ceramic materials vary considerably. Some types will be more friendly than others.)
Here are some general principles I have observed:
  • Plates of normal thickness of about 1/8″ or more are much more easy to cut and use than thin eggshell china.
  • Thin eggshell china is difficult to grout. The curvature of the pieces often means sharp edges will be sticking up.
  • Cutting out distinct parts of a pattern such as a flower is difficult and takes practice and usually generates scrap.
  • Allow yourself several practice plates, so when you approach those with the pattern that is most important to you, you’ll be ready.
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Can I use a hammer to break up my tile?

You can if you don’t mind wasting a lot of your material and producing lots of dust and useless tiny sharp pieces. Sometimes a hammer is useful for breaking up large ceramic tile or unpatterned dinnerware, but never glass tile or stained glass. You just waste too much material that way. If you do use a hammer on dinnerware, wrap it in an old towel to minimize and contain small shards.
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How small can I cut 3/4″ vitreous glass tile?

The 3/4″ vitreous usually can be trimmed to halves, thirds and quarters with no problem. If you attempt to cut it smaller than that, then the embossed ridges on the back sides can interfer with the cuts you are trying to make or the ability of your pieces to lay flat once cut.
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How do I transfer and enlarge mosaic patterns?

A simple procedure for transferring and enlarging mosaic patterns is explained on our page for Inexpensive Mosaic Patterns.
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The contact paper I’m using to mount my mosaics isn’t working. It’s dropping the tiles and is hard to handle.

I use the regular clear contact paper from the grocery store. It can be problematic as well. Most people use the mosaic mounting paper we sell with diluted Weldbond. Here’s how I work indirect: I draw my pattern on piece of butcher paper. I lay a piece of clear contact paper on the pattern with the sticky side up. I lay my tiles face down on the sticky contact paper. Keep in mind that this method reverses the image from left to right. The easiest way to compensate for this is to draw the pattern on the butcher paper as you would like it to look, then turn the butcher paper over and trace the pattern from the other side, then use this side as your pattern for laying up the tile. Whatever mounting paper you use, I highly recommend making a small “experiment” mosaic first to make sure you know how to handle and apply the mosaic. A square foot of mosaic attached to clear contact paper can be heavy and unwieldy. Sometimes tile will fall off while you are about to press the mosaic into the cement. Make sure you have done a quick and dirty mosaic on a scrap piece of board before you invest a lot of time in laying up the real mosaic because it’s awful to suddenly realize you don’t have the confidence to mount what you’ve spent so much time laying up.
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How do I use clear contact paper to make a complicated mosaic design?

To make a simple mosaic, you sketch an outline or “cartoon” on the surface. Then you lay tile on the drawing until you are comfortable with the colors, the size of the tile, how it will look, etc. Then you start gluing the tiles on one by one. The problem is that this takes forever and is tedious because your fingers become sticky with glue and you disturb other tiles as you work. The solution is simple: Lay the tile out without gluing them down. Keep going until the design is complete. Then carefully press a piece of clear contact paper down on the tiles. (It might be useful to have an extra pair of hands help you do this, and make sure you start in the middle and work outward to avoid wrinkles, which can be disastrous.) Spend as much time as needed pressing the contact paper down, rubbing carefully to ensure that each tile is Then CAREFULLY slide the mosaic onto a temporary board or table top just to store it for the time being. Now you can apply thinset or adhesive to your surface and press the mosaic into the thinset or adhesive. After the cement is fully cured in 24 to 48 hours, you can peel off the contact paper and grout the mosaic. An alternative method that may be easier for some people: You can lay clear contact paper upside down on your outline and stick the tiles face-down onto the contact paper. Note that this requires that the tiles be attached to the paper upside down. This means that you are creating your design in left-right reverse because the paper/tiles will be flipped over when installed.
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I want to mount my mosaic on mesh, but my tiles are small or not flat on the bottom. What can I do?

Small tile isn’t mounted on mesh. Instead, use mounting paper or clear contact paper instead to temporarily mount the tile FACE down. Paper mounted sheets are pressed into thinset mortar or adhesive, and the adhesive is allowed to harden. Then the paper is removed by misting with water and peeled off.
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How do I lay up a mosaic design on fiberglass mesh?

The normal procedure is to place clear plastic kitchen wrap or construction plastic over your pattern (usually an outline drawn on paper) and then lay the fiberglass mesh on top of that. Remember to tack or tape the corners down to keep the mesh from moving as you work. Tile is glued to the mesh with a white PVA adhesive such as Weldbond. Take care not to get glue on the sides of the tile, which could allow moisture to wick underneath the grout over time. Leave some of the back of the tile uncovered by glue so that thinset mortar can bond directly to the glass. Tip: Sometimes it helps to trace the outline of the pattern onto the mesh with a black Sharpie marker before you begin gluing tile down and things get messy.
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Does my mosaic need to be sealed before grouting?

Only porous materials such as unpolished stone and unglazed porcelain need to be sealed to prevent staining. Things like smooth glass shouldn’t stain. I use TileLab brand “Grout & Tile Sealer” for a normal seal. I use TileLab brand “Stone Enhancer & Sealer” if I want to slightly enhance/darken the stone colors (recommended). Both of these are available at hardware stores. I apply grout sealer with a small artists paint brush. I am careful to minimize the amount of sealer that drips to the sides where the grout should go. Make sure you don’t put on so much that you get it down in the cracks. You only want to seal the face. I do this before I grout. I also seal the grout after it cures for two or three days.
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Do I need to seal glass tile before I start my mosaic?

I only seal stone and unglazed ceramics before I grout. I don’t worry about glass because it isn’t porous the way stone is, and it can’t be stained by the grout. Stone and Grout Sealer is available at local building material stores. I use non-gloss sealer because it doesn’t change the color or shine of the mosaic.
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Where can I get patterns for mosaics?

We have a page for finding and using Inexpensive Mosaic Patterns.
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My patio table is 48 inches wide, but the concrete backer board is only 36 inches wide. How do I make the table top?

The 48″ patio tables are very common. You should have a welder put some supports of angle iron underneath, and the concrete board is glued to that. The table probably needs to be reinforced anyway, and you should make sure that you aren’t making the table too heavy for the legs or top-heavy or unstable.
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How do I make a mosaic stepping stone? Do I need grout or glue?

Grout and glue are not needed. Most mosaic stepping stones are made by pouring concrete into a mold and pressing in mosaic tiles while the concrete is still wet. We have an in-depth stepping stone tutorial that shows how to make one using concrete. You can get ordinary concrete mix from a local building material store. Make sure you pick out most of the larger rocks before you mix it. You can use a plastic dishpan as a mold or cut off a plastic 5-gallon bucket. Make sure you rub vaseline into it so the stone will come out later. Pour the concrete about 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick. Don’t buy the stepping stone kits that come with ready-made designs. They are boring and unoriginal. You can make beautiful stones just by collecting your own marbles, beach glass, shells, etc. An alternative way of making a stepping stone is to buy a stepping stone from a lawn and garden store and attach tiles to it using thinset. Keep in mind that you might need to scuff the stepping stone with a wire brush to remove any invisible sealers that might keep the thinset from bonding securely.
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How do I put a border or edge on my mosaic?

There are two different approaches for handling the edges of mosaics: 1. “Roman Fragment” In museums, small fragments of Roman mosaics are often displayed on small stands with the edges left unfinished. When I make small mosaic plaques, I will often use a flat piece of fieldstone from a lawn and garden center because I like the non-square shapes. For square shapes, I laminate 1/4″ concrete board to 1/4″ plywood. I mosaic to the edge but make sure that no tile extends beyond the edge. Once I have grouted the mosaic and let it cure, I will go back with medium grit sandpaper and clean up the edge. Then I seal the back and edges with acrylic paint. This technique should only be used on small mosaics because tiles can easily be knocked loose from the unprotected edges. 2. “Picture Frame” For larger mosaics, I build a frame from 1.5″ wide oak, but you can use a cheaper and softer variety of wood. Usually I make the frame before I create the mosaic by glueing the frame to the plywood wood backer and then cutting a smaller piece of concrete board to fit inside the frame. You should find a friend with a miter saw to cut the frame for you because a miter saw can quickly and accurately cut the ends of the wood strips at a 45 degree angle so that they fit together like the corners of a picture frame. It is possible to build a frame around a mosaic you have already made, but again it helps to have a miter saw or a friend with one. This method is recommended because you can drill through the frame to mount your mosaic into the studs of the wall.
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How do I put a border on the edge of a mosaic coffee table?

Hardwood trims and moldings work very well for making a “picture frame” type of border on the surfaces of wooden coffee tables. The molding can be attached with carpenter’s glue. Tip: Stain a sample piece of the molding to make sure that it can be stained close enough in color to the color of the coffee table.
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How do I make a mosaic urn similar to African-American memory jars?

African-American memory jars were home-made funeral urns that were covered with personal items that belonged to the deceased loved one. The objects included buttons, cigarette lighters, keys, pieces of favorite ceramics, etc. I’ve not done any research to find out what was used originally to attach the pieces, but I always use thinset in multi-media mosaics made of these type objects. Tip: You can turn the urn on its side and do a side each night.
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How can my class do a mosaic project in one session?

Creating a mosaic in one session isn’t that realistic, but it can be done, especially if the class can finish up what they start on their own. The class should be all about glueing the tiles down, because that is where the art happens. The mosaics should then be grouted later outside of class, either by the instructor or by the students who are given a handout of instructions and mistakes to avoid. You should review those instructions at the end of the class. The concept is sort of like the you-paint-it ceramic stores where customers come in and paint there designs on the pot, but the pot is fired later by the store. Trying to glue and grout in the same class does nothing but produce disasters.
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I want make mosaic stepping stones with kids for a school project. What would be the least expensive, kid-friendly way to do this?

Our vitreous tile is recommended due to price, range of colors and ease of cutting. There is also a way to do this cheaply using local materials. Large bags of concrete can be bought for a few dollars at a local building material store. Stepping stone molds can be improvised: use plastic dish pans, litter boxes and the bottoms of 5-gallon buckets. Grease the molds with Vaseline to ensure easy removal of stepping stones. Sources of tile: broken ceramic tile from local tile show rooms. They will often donate discontinued and damaged tile; broken pieces of old plates from thrift stores and parents garages. Our vitreous tile is the cheapest tile we have. Use this as an opportunity to show the kids how to improvise as true artists: have them bring in marbles, old ceramic figurines, rocks, old souvenirs and other things and make a few stones. It will be a great learning experience for them. If you decide to do indoor mosaics with them, I recommend backers/substrates cut from 1/2″ sanded plywood. You can build a frame around the backer with wooden molding. Alternatively, I have seen people take wooden picture frames and cut a backer to fit the frame. It all comes down to what you have on hand or what you can get cheaply.
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How do I make a border for the edges of my mosaic table top?

For wooden tables, there are several edge options, which might or might not be appropriate depending on the size, thickness and finish of the table top:
  • Use a plunge router to cut out the area where the mosaic should go.
  • Make a border/frame from wood molding from the building material store.
  • Make a border from a different type of tile with a rounded edge, such as ceramic tile with a bullnose edge.
Outdoor mosaic table tops are usually supported by metal bases, such as a metal patio table where the table top is a separate piece which fits into the base, which usually has a metal rim around the edge to protect the edge. The best option is to find a base which has an appropriate rim. Junk shops and garage sales are good sources for metal tables. A local welder can also fabricate what you need. In either case, it is much easier to find or make something appropriate than it is to try to use a metal table that isn’t quite right simply because you happen to already own it. Wonderful art can often be made from junk, but sometimes junk is junk. Don’t waste your creative energy trying to make a metal patio table work when it isn’t quite right. The same applies to wooden coffee tables. Mosaic art takes too much work to warrant using a base that will quickly fall apart or never quite look right.
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Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information

No warranty is implied by these instructions. Use at your own risk. Please wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout. Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Do not overload patio tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table frame can support the overall weight. Copyright 2003-2017 J.E. Moorman. Please link to these instructions freely, but email us if you would like to reproduce them for classes, etc.
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Mosaic Tile Mounting Grid 12mm

mosaic tile mounting grid 12mm

Mounting Grid for 12mm (~1/2 inch) Glass Mosaic Tile by Elementile is for temporarily mounting patterns of uncut tile to paper for rapid installation using the indirect method. These are not needed for most projects. Most artists use cut tiles or glue each tile directly on the surface they are covering and do not need grids.

These grids come directly from the factory and show various signs of use. They were made by machining blocks of plastic instead of pressed in a mold, so they look home made to be brutally honest, but they work.

The grid mounts 484 of the 12mm Elementile Brand mosaic tile on 1 square foot of mosaic mounting paper in a uniform grid of 22 x 22 tiles with a grout gap of approximately 1/16 inch.

Note that the paper we sell is 1.15 square foot, which is larger than these grids but should not pose any problems. (You can always trim away the excess paper after you mount the tiles.)

Mosaic Tile Mounting Grid 12mm

  • grid size: 22 tiles x 22 tiles.
  • grid area: 30cm x 30cm (just under 1 square foot).
  • grout gap: approximately 1/16 inch.
  • tile size: 12mm (~1/2 inch).

Indirect Method

Mosaic tile can be glued one at a time DIRECTLY to a surface, or you can lay your mosaic out on a temporary surface in what is called the “Indirect Method.” Temporary surfaces can include things like fiberglass mesh, paper, adhesive contact paper or trays filled with lime putty. Our grids were made to work with self-adhesive mounting tape or mounting paper that is glued to the faces of the tiles.

Why Use The Indirect Method

Why would you want to use the Indirect Method? It is easier to lay up your mosaic design at your work table than it is to lay it out on a floor or vertical wall. Also, you can work for days or weeks at your work table laying up the mosaic without tying up the location where the mosaic will actually be installed. Again, none of this is necessary for a beginner laying up a small craft project like a trivet or a mosaic mirror.

Use In Mosaic Art

The following is how to do the indirect method using our grids and mounting paper:

  1. Place glass mosaic tile into the grid face up, filling up the grid with your design.
  2. Dilute water-soluble glue such as Elmer’s Glue with 3 parts water to 1 part glue.
  3. Paint the water soluble glue onto the mounting paper using a small artists paint brush. Use a light coat to avoid wrinkling the paper.
  4. Lay mounting paper onto the face of the tile, careful to avoid wrinkles.
  5. Allow sheet to dry completely and remove from the grid.
  6. Spread thinset mortar or mosaic adhesive on the surface to be mosaiced.
  7. “Butter” the bottom of the sheet of tile with the same mortar or adhesive. Of coarse, you butter the bare glass bottoms of the tile, not the paper.
  8. Press the sheet of tiles into the adhesive-covered surface with the PAPER ON THE OUTSIDE.
  9. Allow the thinset or adhesive to cure for 24 hours.
  10. Mist the paper until it is soaked and peel it off the tiles.
  11. Grout the mosaic.

How To Make Mosaics

For more advice on designing your mosaic project or cutting and grouting tile, please see our Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions page or our How To Mosaic blog or our Mosaic Information Guide.

How to Use Thinset for Mosaic Artwork

Thinset Mortar

Thinset is used for outdoor mosaics, or mosaics which may come into contact with water, such as in a shower enclosure.

This page explains how to mix and use thinset mortar for detailed work with glass mosaic tile and other tesserae for outdoor and wet mosaics where PVA adhesives such as Weldbond should be avoided.

These instructions are written for doing detailed work one-tile-at-a-time by hand, and so this page might make using thinset sound more difficult than it really is. For mounting sheets of tile on mesh or paper, it’s a lot simpler: Spread the mortar on the wall with a notched trowel, butter the back of the sheet of tile, and then press the sheet to the wall.

What Is Thinset Mortar?

For outdoor and wet mosaics, thinset is recommended instead of adhesives. Thinset is a bonding mortar, which means it is a portland cement (the same as used in concrete) with polymers added to make it sticky and extra strong. This is particularly important when working with glass mosaic tile, which is non-porous and difficult to bond securely.

What Brand?

We now sell thinset mortar in 2.25-pound convenience packs for small projects.

We use Versabond brand, which we buy at Home Depot, and I suspect your local contractors are using the same or something more or less the same. HOWEVER, if you live some place with extreme cold or extreme wet, it never hurts to go to your local building material store and ask what contractors are using in your area before choosing a paint or a roofing material or a sealant or anything like that.

How To Handle Large Bags?

Thinset Mortar comes in 25-pound bags. Go ahead and buy a 5-gallon bucket with a snap on lid and keep your material in there. Bags leak. Buckets with lids don’t. Slide the bag into the bucket and shake it until the bag fits into the bucket. Avoid pouring the bag into the bucket, which would make a large dust cloud. Keep a recycled plastic yogurt tub in the bucket and use that to scoop out material. Wear a dust mask and do this outside. Mist with a spray bottle to control dust.

Bucket Thinset Mortar
For an artist setting up a studio to do small mosaic projects, a 5-gallon bucket with snap on lid should be purchased at the same time you by the 50-lb bag. Buy a spray bottle for misting if you don’t own one already and control dust at the source. You don’t need a scoop. You can use a recycled plastic cottage cheese container for that. Keep it in the bucket of thinset.

Mixing Thinset Mortar

The thinset bag has mixing instructions on the label, but those were written for mixing the entire bag. For detailed mosaic artwork where you are placing each tile by hand, you will probably want to mix 1 to 3 pounds at most. You can find what amount of water to add per pound by dividing the amount of water recommended for the entire package by the weight of the package.

Mixing Ratio: 4 oz Water to 1 lb Thinset

For Versabond thinset, we add 1/2 cup or 4 oz of water per 1 pound of dry thinset powder. You can use that same ratio of 1 part water to 4 parts thinset to mix up tiny batches of thinset, such as 1 ounce of water plus 4 ounces of thinset.

Mix Outdoors and Control Dust

We use a small kitchen scale or postal scale for weighing out the thinset and the water. Alternatively, a measuring cup can be used for the water, with 1/2 cup being the equivalent of 4 ounces weight. Although you should wear a dust mask when scooping and mixing the thinset powder, it is best to control dust at the source by slow careful scoops and stirs and never pouring or dumping the powder.

Use a spray bottle at its finest setting to mist your work area with water as you stir and scoop. There is only a tiny amount of water in a fine mist, and so you don’t have to worry about it messing up your unused thinset or throwing off your measurements, but it is highly effective at getting the dust out of the air. Keep in mind that you can create a lot of dust after the water is added to the powder by stirring to rapidly. Stir slowly until the powder is wetted, and make use of your spray bottle as needed.

An aluminum ice scoop or a large steel kitchen spoon can be used to scoop out the thinset powder, but you can also use a recycled plastic container (such as used for cottage cheese or yogurt) and just store this improvised scoop in your bucket of thinset.

Here is a list of items recommended for mixing thinset:

  • plastic bucket or plastic container for mixing.
  • smaller plastic containers for scooping and weighing
  • dust mask
  • small kitchen scale or postal scale
  • measuring cup (optional)
  • paint paddle or sturdy rod for stirring
  • trowel for scraping buckets and stirring tools
  • spray bottle for misting
tools to mix thinset
Most of the tools needed to mix thinset.

Mixing Buckets: Size Matters

For small batches of 1 pound or less, we mix it up in a 32-ounce plastic yogurt container and use a putty knife or old butter knife to stir. For larger batches, we mix in a 5-gallon bucket so that we can mix vigorously without slinging out any material. A smaller bucket (2 gallon) can also be used, but keep in mind that you don’t want to fill any container more than half way full, ideally a quarter full or less. It helps to control dust if all the mixing happens near the bottom of the bucket.

Stirring

You have to pour the water in gently and stir slowly at first to avoid creating dust before the powder is wetted. Use a clean paint paddle or sturdy rod to stir, and make sure that your stirrer is stout enough for the job. This is concrete not cookie dough! You can break the plastic handle off your wife’s favorite spoon or bend a thin piece of pipe in a hurry if the batch is large enough. In all seriousness, you will notice that it takes some strength to mix up larger batches. We have a concrete mixing attachment that fits into our electric drill, and we use it for batches of 5 pounds or more.

Mix the mortar until it has the consistency of dough with no lumps. Take care to mix all the way to the bottom of the bucket and scrape the edges to make sure that no powder, lumps or clumps remain. Then the mortar is allowed to sit for 5 to 10 minutes, and then it is mixed again for a minute or two.

A margin trowel is very useful for scraping the sides of the bucket and making sure there aren’t pockets of unmixed powder down in the edges of the bottom of the bucket. The scraping power of the trowel comes in handy during clean up too. Thinset is very sticky, and if it has set for more than a few minutes, it will likely take more than a squirt nozzle to remove it. Scraping with a trowel is the best way to remove the crust of thinset that forms on buckets and stirrers.

Dyeing Thinset?

After the thinset is mixed, concrete dye can be blended into it if the thinset will be used for grouting and a custom color is desired. (Versabond thinset is sold in white and gray.) Most thinset is used only for attaching tiles, and so there is no need to dye the thinset if it will not be visible. Also, you need to test your dye with your thinset to make sure that it doesn’t affect the bond strength or hardness. (A good test is to cement a few rocks together, wait about 6 days, and then bust them apart with a hammer and look for crumbly material or a lack of adhesion.) Recently we added a liquid concrete dye to Versabond thinset, and we used many, many times the recommended dosage for concrete without any noticeable loss in bond strength or hardness as far as we could tell, although we make no guarantees. Keep in mind that we used a concrete dye and not acylic paint or some other source of pigment that might interfere with the adhesive additive.

Detailed Mosaic Artwork

Thinset is extremely sticky and meant to be spread with a trowel to mount large tiles or sheets of tile, but with a little care and planning, you can use it mount tile one piece at a time for detailed mosaic artwork similar to how glue is normally used in that mode of working.

As with glue, thinset can be used in either of two ways: It can be spread on a small area on which tiles are then placed, or it can be applied to the back of each tile individually. For either technique, a painter’s palette knife is the ideal tool for handling the thinset. (Although improvised tools such as an old butter knife can be used for this work, the benefits of the palette knife become obvious in just a few minutes. The pallet knife was ergonomically designed to manipulate pastes on flat surfaces WITH MINIMAL BENDING OF THE WRIST and makes a butter knife just seem clumsy.)

Whether your spread the thinset or apply it to each individual tile, you will need a way of keeping your hands clean and a way of cleaning up random drops and smears. We use the following materials to keep the work clean and efficient:

  • painter’s pallet knives
  • putty knife or margin trowel
  • small plastic lid or tray
  • tweezers
  • spray bottle
  • dirty rag
  • wet rag floating in a bucket 1/4 full of water
  • clean rag
  • medical examination gloves (recommended)
  • old work surface or shop table.
  • wadded newspapers in garbage can
thinset workstation
This workstation is ready for thinset application.

The plastic tray or recycled container lid holds a small amount of thinset for use. Scoop a small amount of thinset into the tray and keep the rest of the thinset in the mixing bucket. Keep the bucket covered and use the putty knife or margin trowel to scrap the sides of the bucket so that all the thinset is in a blob and doesn’t dry out. Mist the thinset sparingly if you see it drying. We can use thinset for up to 4 or 5 hours this way.

Whether you spread the thinset in small patches or put a smear of thinset on the backside of each tile will depend on your style and pace of work. If you are improvising your design as you go along, you may find that you use both techniques.

Keeping Fingers Clean

No matter how you handle the thinset, you will occasionally get some on your fingers. If you are sloppy in how you clean your fingers (gloved or ungloved), you will use up tons of rags. Use this procedure to use only 3 rags:

  1. Scrape fingers off on the wadded newspaper in the garbage can.
  2. Use the DIRTY rag if needed, but try to use as little as possible.
  3. Dip fingers in bucket of water with WET rag.
  4. Use the CLEAN rag to dry fingers.

If the above instructions aren’t detailed enough, I have also written an expanded version of this technique in a blog article called How To Keep Your Hands Clean When Using Thinset Mortar.

Examination Gloves Recommended

Thinset, grout, concrete, and other products that contain portland cement are mildly caustic and can dry out the skin very rapidly and cause irritation. For this reason, we wear medical examination gloves while we work with thinset. The nitril gloves we sell are ideal for this purpose because they are latex-free and powder free and are more durable than the latex medical examination gloves we used to sell. Note that these gloves are much thinner and offer much more dexterity than the thick grouting gloves.

Grouting Bag Fitted With Icing Nipple

For found-object mosaic, we sometimes use a grouting bag fitted with a Wilton brand cake icing nipple. The grouting bag with nipple allows us to dispense the thinset in a very controlled way as if from a bottle of glue. This technique can also be used for flat tile.

thinset grout bag detail
We use a rubber band to help hold the plastic collar over the metal nozzle of the grouting bag.

Clean Up

Make sure you clean up outside and do not pour unused thinset down drains. Even the sand in grout and thinset is enough to stop up some plumbing systems. Try to dispose of most of your unused thinset as solid waste. Rinse away any residue with enough water so that you don’t leave a white limestone scum on the grass, which could kill it if conditions are dry.

Mosaic Tile Backers

What to use for a backer is determined by how the mosaic will be displayed. For example, you could use a piece of sanded plywood as a backer for a small mosaic plaque or trivet, but you could NOT use plywood as backer for a mosaic floor because wood is compressible. Similarly, you could NOT use plywood as a backer for an outdoor mosaic or wet mosaic because plywood warps over time due to changes in humidity.

We have some additional recommendations for choosing a backer based on how the mosaic will be displayed.


Concrete Backer Board

The best all-around mosaic backer is concrete backer board, such as that used in bathrooms as the sub-floor for tile floors. Concrete backer board is cheap, cuts easily, comes in 1/4″ and 1/2″ thick sheets, and is available at almost any building material store. Drywall can be removed easily and replaced with a sheet of concrete backer board. The 1/2″ thickness is recommended for floors, and we only use the 1/4″ size when laminating it to plywood.

Using Concrete Backer Board for Wall Art or Plaques

A small piece of concrete backer board can be used to strengthen a piece of hanging wall art or a plaque. 1/4″ backer board can be laminated to a piece of plywood and then the edges sanded with a belt sander (wear a mask!) to make the sides look even. The backer board will provide a rigid and waterproof layer for the mosaic to rest on while the plywood behind it can be used to anchor the screws in that are needed for the hanging wire.


incomplete mosaic with backer-board laminated to plywood

Mosaic artist Natalija Moss began this mosaic by laminating a piece of 1/4″ backer board to a piece of plywood. She used Weldbond mosaic glue and some clamps to laminate the plywood to the backerboard over night. Then she drew the pattern for the mosaic using a marker onto the backer board side of the piece.


incomplete mosaic with some glass down

Using the direct method, Natalija then started cutting and gluing pieces of stained glass directly to the backer board surface. Backer board may bond to the glue more quickly than other surfaces such as plywood, so make sure you have your pieces exactly where you want them or you may have to scrape them off with a flathead screwdriver which could damage nearby tiles, especially stained glass. Always wear safety glasses when mosaicing, but especially if you find yourself scraping off tiles.

incomplete mosaic with some glass down

The finished piece. There are two screws in the back of the plywood with a hanging wire tied to them. The plywood behind the backer board is about 1/2″ thick so she used short screws so as not to penetrate the backer board and damage the mosaic. It is also possible to cut a keyhole slot using a plunge router, but that should be done at the beginning before any glass is put down.


Durable, Strong, Inflexible, and Clean

Mosaic backings should be durable, strong, inflexible and clean.

Durable

Durable means resistant to water and moisture. Over the years, humidity in the air can turn plywood and particle board into splinters. Long before this happens, the tiles will begin popping off as the plywood warps. MDF and particle board swell and disintegrate with humidity as well. Avoid using wood products of any type outdoors. If you have to use wood outdoors, then use marine plywood, and make sure you paint the undersides and side edges with multiple coats of exterior paint and seal the finished mosaic.

All that being said, plywood can be used for dry indoor mosaics such as small plaques, picture frames and mirrors. If you make an indoor mosaic picture on plywood larger than 2 feet wide, then you should still paint the underside and sides to keep humidity from warping the plywood over time.

Strong

Mosaic materials are heavy, no matter if you are using stone, ceramic or glass mosaic tile. Grout is concrete. The weight of even one square foot of mosaic can be heavy. This means that not only your backer must be strong but also your points of attachment. (Never hang a mosaic from a single nail like a painting.) Mosaics made on thin panes of glass are also not recommended, especially glass table tops.

Glass table tops can sometimes be replaced with a sheet of concrete backer board if the table is strong enough to support the weight. (Never create a safety problem by gluing heavy mosaic materials to a glass table top.) The table should have a wide enough base so that the mosaic doesn’t make it “top heavy” or otherwise unstable. The table should also support the concrete backer in the center and not just on the edges. If your table does not have support in the center, consider bolting or welding a piece of angle-iron across the center.

Inflexible

Grout and mosaic tile are inflexible. If they are mounted to a backer that flexes even slightly over time, the grout and tile will crack and pop off. Mosaic backings for floors should also be incompressible. This is why concrete backer board is used beneath tile floors instead of plywood.

Note that plastic and thin sheet metal fail all three of the above criteria, but especially the requirement to be inflexible. Plastic and sheet metal also pose additional problems with bonding securely to glue and grout.

Clean

Walls and floors made from concrete, stone or masonry are obvious choices for mosaics, but even these ready-made backers should be scoured to remove paint, sealants and dirt, and you may need to plaster them smooth with mortar before starting the mosaic.

It never hurts to take a wire brush and scour a surface before you attach tiles to it. Nothing is worse than putting days or weeks into a project only to have it not hold up very well. It only takes a little dust or a little grease or a little paint to cause tiles to pop off within a few years or even months. How do you know that concrete wall doesn’t have an invisible pore sealer on it? You don’t. Take a wire brush and scour it!

If your surface is large, such as for a mural, then use a power tool called an angle grinder with a rotary wire brush. (Wear gloves and a face shield, especially if you haven’t used one before, because things like angle grinders and belt sanders can take the hide right off of you.) You can rent power tools at places like Home Depot, or you can ask your favorite handyman or handywoman to scour the wall for you. The point is that this type of surface prep can be done with little effort and is worth doing because it might determine whether or not your mosaic lasts more than a year or two.

Floor Mosaics

Contemporary floor mosaics usually take the form of accents such as mosaic medallions and mosaic borders instead of the larger pictoral designs that covered the entire floors of ancient Roman houses. The contemporary mosaic accents are integrated with the existing flooring material, which is usually larger tiles of marble or ceramic. These limited area designs are more practical for the simple reason that most of the floor is covered with furniture, and it only makes sense to mosaic the small part of the floor where it will be consistently visible. That being said, I would absolutely love to have a customer email me pictures of a full floor design.

Mosaic Medallion

The mosaic below is a beautiful example of a compass rose medallion made by our customer Caroline Lahman from the tumbled marble mosaic we sell. I’m particularly impressed with the professional quality of the work Caroline did, and the fact that she actually took the time to photo-document the work in progess with publication-quality images, which is something I usually fail to do once I get rolling. mosaic medallion mesh layout The first step in making a mosaic medallion is to draw a pattern and tape it to a work table and cover the pattern with construction plastic or plastic kitchen wrap so that you don’t glue everything to your pattern. On top of this, fiberglass mesh is laid and the corners taped or tacked down securely. Although the pattern should be visible through the mesh, I find it useful to take a Sharpie brand marker and trace the design on the mesh directly just to make sure I can see it once things get a little messy. mosaic medallion under construction For most floors, water isn’t that much of an issue, but for shower floor and bathroom floor mosaics, it is something to think about. For these “wet” mosaics, I like to use only a drop of glue at the center of the tile when I attach it to the mesh. This leaves some of the tile uncovered by glue so that it can bond directly to the thinset mortar when the finished mosaic is mounted to the floor. The thinset mortar is much more water resistant than white PVA glues such as Weldbond. (That being said, Weldbond is fairly water resistant when fully cured.) mosaic medallion ready for install Thinset mortar and grout are both concrete products that can stain porous materials like unpolished stone. To prevent this, the mosaic should be sealed before you grout it (and probably before you mount it because accidents can happen during mounting). The catch is that you don’t want to seal any surface where grout will need to bond, including the sides of the tiles. You only want to seal the top face of the stones. To do this, I use a small artist’s paint brush and carefully brush the sealer on the top face of the stone taking care to not let excess sealer run into the gaps between the stones. I use TileLab brand “Grout & Tile Sealer” for a normal seal. I use TileLab brand “Stone Enhancer & Sealer” if I want to slightly enhance/darken the stone colors (recommended). Both of these are available at Home Depot. Note that these products are invisible pore sealers and not an actual coating like polyurethane. mosaic medallion completed The finished compass rose medallion is well integrated with existing floor and the color scheme of the room. Congratulations Caroline on the job well done!

Backsplashes, Showers, and Countertops

Mosaic backsplashes and shower mosaics make great projects, and with a little thought, it is possible to come up with designs, even figurative designs (pictures), which integrate visually with existing tiling and decor.

Shower mosaic work in progress

One of our customers puts the finishing touches on her shower mosaic. Rhonda Gotway Clyde and Jessica Oldham made this mosaic from bottles and plates they broke and tumbled in a rock tumbler.

Shower mosaic by Rhonda G. Clyde and Jessica Oldham

This mosaic has great andamento (arrangement of tile in curves to suggest motion) and uses colors which tie it in visually with existing tiling.

Thinset, Mastic or Weldbond?

Ordinary bathroom and kitchen tiling is mounted using a product called tile mastic, which is a water-based adhesive. Why then do people say to avoid adhesives when creating mosaics in a shower?

The reason is simple: Bathroom tiles are typically 4 inches or larger, while the tiles used in an artistic mosaic are usually smaller than 1/2 inch. This difference in tile size means that the artistic mosaic has more grout lines and thus more places where can potentially penetrate behind the tile and weaken the adhesive over time.

However, mosaic backsplashes in both kitchen and bath CAN be installed using a white PVA adhesive such as Weldbond provided the mosaic is grouted properly and the grout is sealed with a tile and grout sealer, which is absolutely essential on horizontal surfaces where water can pool. In fact, if the mosaic will be wet more often than dry, then you should use thinset mortar instead of adhesive. (Thinset mortar is a sticky concrete that has polymers mixed in for strength and adhesive properties.) For shower floors, for example, you would definitely want to use thinset mortar instead of an adhesive. I should also note that while mosaic walls can be made on drywall or plywood, you should use 1/2″ concrete backer board for any floors to be tiled.

Use Mesh or Work Directly?

For large tiles, thinset is usually spread on with a trowel with 1/4″ notches, and the tile is pressed into the thinset quickly and efficiently. But artistic mosaic work has a different pace from architectural tiling just as painting a portrait takes more time and care than painting a barn door. Many artists overcome this difference in pace by first laying up the mosaic on fiberglass mesh or laying the mosaic upside down on mounting paper or clear mounting tape (in what is called the reverse method). With all the detail work done in advance, the sheets of mosaic are then pressed into spread thinset just as ordinary tile would be.

BUT, an artist often chooses to work in thinset directly and set one tiny tile at a time. Most people can figure out how to do this when using an adhesive, which comes in small convenient bottles, but working with a sticky concrete product like thinset mortar takes a little bit of thought. Fortunately, it isn’t that difficult, and some simple tools like palette knives or popsicle sticks and tweezers can take a lot of the frustration out of the process. I have written a page for how to use thinset for making mosaic art, which probably goes into more detail than you need for most projects.

Work in progress octopus shower mosaic by Jason Hiller
Jason Hiller decided to work in-situ instead of laying up the mosaic on mesh due to the nature of the design, which integrates a mosaic figure (an octopus) with a non-mosaic background.
Finished octopus shower mosaic by Jason Hiller
The finished octopus mosaic is probably a little too real for some people!

I consider this mosaic to be the antithesis of the cutesy mosaics seen at most art and craft shows. Very nice work. Jason Hiller is a tile and stone contractor in the Bellingham, Washington area.

Mosaic Counter Top by Melanie Berry
Melanie Berry in Baltimore made this mosaic counter top with very calming colors and cobalt accents that make use of patterned china shards.

Mosaic Fireplace

Mosaic fireplaces are made by applying mosaic to the surrounding face, but not the inside of the fireplace itself. In fact, if the fireplace is actually used and not merely decorative, you probably shouldn’t mosaic the hearth (floor) in front of the fireplace because heavy chunks of wood and fire irons tend to crack and knock tile loose over time. That being said, porcelain tile and many varieties of stone are very hard and could be used for the hearth. The fireplace surround can be mosaiced with a variety of materials including glass tile.

Brick and stone should be plastered over with thinset mortar to smooth the surface in advance of actually applying the mosaic. Alternatively, 1/2 inch concrete backer board can be mounted over the existing fireplace surround as a backing for your mosaic.

For mounting the tiles, a white PVA adhesive such as Weldbond or thinset mortar should be used. I have written a page for using thinset mortar for detailed mosaic art, but for larger tiles, the thinset could be spread with a 1/4 inch notched trowel, and the tile pressed into it relatively quickly as is typically done with bathroom tiling.


A Whimsical Fireplace Mosaic

The fireplace mosaic below is a whimsical design made by my friends for their ice cream shop, which was located in a restored Victorian house in Decatur, Georgia. The color choices and motifs are in keeping with the kid-friendly theme of their shop.



mosaic fireplace design layout
Mosaic designs can be developed merely by playing with tile in different arrangements.
concrete backer board fireplace surround
Concrete backer board can be mounted over the existing fireplace surround or mortar can be spread in advance of the mosaic work.


mosaic fireplace tile placement
Mosaic tile may be mounted individually or on mesh-mounted sheets or face-mounted on paper for pressing into mortar.
mosaic fireplace completed
The mosaic fireplace surround and hearth are completed.

An Outdoor Fireplace Mosaic

For outdoor mosaics subject to rain, humidity and freezing temperatures, thinset mortar should be used instead of adhesive to mount tiles. Thinset is a sticky concrete product that contains polymers for added strength and adhesive properties. We usually use it for grouting our outdoor mosaics because it is stronger than grout, and it will be the same color as any thinset that squeezes up between the tiles from when they were attached. We have successfully dyed thinset with concrete dye without any noticeable loss of strength or adhesion. Concrete dye and thinset are sold at most building material stores.

The fireplace below is actually an outdoor pizza oven, based on the wood-fired Italian variety, and the mosaic is on the hearth in front of the oven. The oven and the mosaic were made by one of our customers and her boyfriend in his backyard. “I Cinquanta Gradini” means “The Fifty Steps” in Italian, a reference to the 50 steps leading up to the house and oven.



mosaic pizza oven
Outdoor mosaic pizza oven under construction.
mosaic hearth detail
Hearth detail from outdoor pizza oven.