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Summaries of some of the most important tools and supplies we offer for working with mosaic tile.

The mosaic supplies you need depend on the type of mosaic tile you are using (glass or ceramic or stone) and how you plan to install them. Five minutes of reading can save you five hours of frustration on your mosaic project.

For a complete listing of tweezers, sponges, gloves, dental picks, spatulas, etc., visit our mosaic tools page.

Fiberglass Mesh

Ceramic and Marble File

Grouting Bags

Compound Tile Nipper

Fiberglass Mesh

Mosaics are sometimes laid up on a thin and flexible fiberglass mesh for rapid installation. Tiles are glued to the mesh using a white PVA adhesive such as the Weldbond brand adhesive we sell. Once the mosaic is assembled on the mesh, the mosaic artwork can be pressed into thinset mortar or adhesive and mounted to the surface to be covered.

Our mesh is sold in uncut lengths like fabric in linear feet. The roll is 38 inches wide, so each linear foot actually gives you 3 square feet of mesh.

When Not To Use Mesh

If your mosaic will be in a pool or shower floor, you may want to avoid mesh because it involves glue to attach the tile to the mesh. For these “wet” mosaics, you lay them up face down on mounting paper using a temporary glue such as Elmer’s School Glue in what is called the “reverse method” because you glue the tiles upside down on paper. These finished sheets are pressed into thinset mortar, which is allowed to harden overnight, and the next day the paper is misted and removed. Note that this is different from how fiberglass mesh is used, which goes underneath the tile and is permanent. Most people prefer mesh to paper because the “reverse method” of using paper means that you have to lay out your mosaic upside down.

When You Can Use Mesh

Note that mesh and glue CAN be used on kitchen and bathroom back-splashes and other vertical surfaces where water does not pool. You CAN use mesh for dry indoor floors, walls, etc. You CAN use mesh for mosaic tables and plaques, but why would you? Sometimes it makes sense to draw your pattern on the surface to be mosaiced and simply start gluing tile to it.

Caroline laid this butterfly mosaic up on fiberglass mesh. It is ready to be installed. In this instance, the artist glued the background tile around the butterfly on the same mesh. However, if she wasn’t doing that sort of background she could have trimmed away the surrounding mesh and used the mosaic butterfly as an insert into a space in existing tiling.

Tips for using mosaic tile mesh:

• Tape a piece of clear plastic or kitchen wrap over the top of your pattern so that you don’t accidentally glue the mosaic tile mesh to the pattern or work table.
• It may be easier to work in small sections, such as 1 ft x 1 ft, than to lay the entire mosaic on one piece of mesh
• Some people lay the mosaic on one large sheet of mesh, and then cut this sheet with a box cutter to make it easier to mount to the wall.

Choosing the right adhesive for your mosaic

Picking the correct adhesive or glue is a very important decision when starting a mosaic, possibly the most important. If you choose the wrong one, your mosaic will not last as long as it should.

The best way to make a decision is to understand the different choices of adhesives and which ones works better with certain surfaces and tesserae. The primary deciding factor will be where the mosaic will live once it is complete: indoors or outdoors.

Indoor mosaic glue

Weldbond is the best. It’s a water based PVA glue, has no fumes, dries clear and water resistant, bonds to most any surface, is non-toxic and cleans up easily. We’ve extensively tested it, which you can read about here. However, I prefer to use thinset bonding mortar for floors. It gives a more stable and durable walking surface and better resists water seepage when cleaning the floors.

Outdoor mosaic glue

In choosing adhesive for outdoor mosaics, it’s probably best to avoid adhesives altogether and use thinset mortar (a sticky concrete with added polymers) instead. To use thinset, you should read and follow the instructions on the package for mixing, handling and disposal. We also have a guide to using thinset. In brief, thinset is like grout and other concrete products. This means that the best place to mix them up is outside, and you should wear a dust mask if have trouble mixing it up without creating a lot of dust. (Our artists merely stand upwind and mist it with a spray bottle until they get it mixed up.)

I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it out to about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the bucket covered so that it doesn’t dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from time to time and a dry rag in my lap.

See our illustrated grouting tutorial for more details.

At this time, we no longer recommend using a construction adhesives in an outdoor environment. Use adhesives other than thinset at your own risk.

Read more about outdoor mosaic considerations.

Glue for marbles and round stones

Marbles and round stones can be a challenge. Unless they are being pressed into cement face-up on a horizontal surface like stepping stones, the right adhesive choice is important. You may be able to use a thick cosntruction adhesive for this purpose, though it isn’t recommended to do this for outdoor mosaics. It is probably best to use thinset in these cases.

Understanding Different Types of Mosaic Adhesives

PVA glues like Welbond are water soluble adhesives that will clean up with water. PVA glues should not be used on any outdoor project. Even if it isn’t exposed to rain, humidity can also loosen the bond. When working in the indirect method, PVA glue can be used to adhere tiles to fiberglass mesh. It also bonds well with any type of tile and wooden or acrylic surfaces. Again, Weldbond is the best and it dries clear.

Thinset is a sticky cement which can be messy to work with, but it is necessary for outdoor projects if you want them to hold up. It can be found at any hardware store, and is often only sold in large quantities. The best surfaces for thinset are porous, such as cement, cement backerboard, and wood and terracotta. To use with non-porous surfaces like glass, the thinset has to be mixed with admixes instead of water, which are either latex or acrylic liquids that make the thinset sticky. Premixed thinset is not as good as dry mix.

Silicone is used most often on glass surfaces because it comes in transparent varieties. It usually comes in a caulking tube and can take some time to get used to. It is difficult to remove and if you apply too much, it will come up between the tiles and make grouting more difficult and incomplete. When used under larger sheets, the areas towards the inside may never cure completely.

Epoxy is used on metal surfaces, but works on wood and glass also. It can hold up outdoors in ideal conditions, but it is very difficult to use and has a noxious odor. Once it is mixed, it must be used quickly. But when it is used successfully and correctly, it is a very strong adhesive and it dries clear.

In speaking with other mosaic artists, you will likely find that everyone has their own preferences for adhesives and that they are used in different ways from artist to artist. Understanding the characteristics of each type of adhesive will help you in finding the best solution for you in your various projects. When working with a new glue, be sure it is what you need for your project. Is it for interior or exterior, is it toxic, and will it work with your surface? Other than Welbond, the most popular brands for mosaics are Liquid Nails, MacGlue, and Gorilla Glue. Once you’ve experimented with several types of adhesives, you will get a feel for what you prefer and what works best.

Always clean up excess glue before you grout. After water soluble glue has dried for a day or two, I come back and mist the mosaic with water. After about 10 minutes, any traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. I then take a razor knife like a box cutter or exacto knife and trim away the excess glue. This cleaning step ensures that there will be no glue sticking up and not covered by grout.

How To Make A Mosaic

These instructions are for an indoor mosaic not subjected to excess moisture. The mosaic process is similar for outdoor mosaics (such as pools and fountains) but thinset mortar is used outdoors instead of Weldbond adhesive. For wet mosaics such as shower floors, you also need to use thinset. Thinset is a sticky concrete with polymers added for strength, adhesion and water resistance.

More information on outdoor mosaics, specialized topics and advanced mosaic methods can be found on our Outdoor Mosaic Guide.

Our FAQ page also contains additional mosaic instructions, tips on using thinset and answers to many specific mosaic questions. It is constantly being expanded and has solutions for many common mosaic problems. Also, here are some tips on how to avoid disasters while grouting.

For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:

1. Draw a simple “cartoon” (outline) on the mosaic surface. You can copy a mosaic pattern from a coloring book or your favorite pattern of china or fabric. See our blog article on creating easy mosaic art patterns from photos and images.

We carry everything you might need to make a mosaic:

See the Mosaic Tips below for more help with your mosaic.

Mosaic Tips from Our Resident Mosaic Artist

• Start simple.
• Make a small mosaic plaque before you mosaic a wall or floor. That way you can work out your materials and methods before the big job.
• How can you draw a design? Simple drawings like those in a coloring book work best. The color and the details come when you add the tile and glass. I always sketch something on paper and then come home and draw a simple cartoon on my plywood or concrete board using a magic marker. If drawing is a sore spot, you can create mosaic patterns easily without drawing as well.
• My first rule of grouts is to choose a contrasting color. If you use white grout with white tile or grey grout with grey tiles, then the tiles don’t stand out from the grout, and most of the detail of your design will be lost. When in doubt, black grout is usually the answer.
• My personal second rule of grouts is that DARKER GROUTS ALMOST ALWAYS LOOK BETTER. I have almost always been disappointed when using plain white grout. White grout makes a nice mosaic look like a summer camp project! Try an off-white or light beige if you think you need a light color. Also remember that grouts are much darker while they are wet and get lighter as they cure.
• Don’t know anything about glues, grouts or tiling? Your local hardware store or handyman is a mosaic expert even though they’ve never made one. (You might not know anyone who has made a mosaic, but you probably know someone who has tiled a bathroom or kitchen. The technical skills are very similar.)
• Use a wheeled glass cutter to cut glass and smalti. Use a tile nipper to cut ceramic tiles, china and other dishes.
• Always wear safety glasses when cutting tile or glass or mixing grout. (Grout is mildly caustic and has sand and grit in it.) Making a mosaic can be fun but you should always be careful.
• Grout mosaics outside. It’s a messy process. Look at books on home improvement for basic techniques of grouting if you’re not sure. Keep grout damp as it cures and do not allow it to dry out rapidly, otherwise it will crumble. Remember, the grout is binding water internally in a chemical process as it cure. It is NOT drying.
• Keep mosaic tiles and supplies out of reach of children. Use caution when handling the broken glass and ceramics.
• Spend a little more time on your mosaic. Don’t rush and don’t think about what you want to make next. It can make a world of difference in your satisfaction.
• Avoid plywood as a backer unless you can seal the edges and bottom. Wood materials absorb water over time and warp, and then grout and tiles pop off. You might not be trying to recreate a timeless Roman mosaic that will endure for centuries, but at least make something that will last 2 or 3 years. Use plywood at least 1/2″ thick inside and concrete or concrete board outside. Always use concrete or concrete board as the base of any mosaic that will be walked on. Concrete board can be purchased from building material stores. A common brand name is Wonderboard. For my indoor mosaics, I laminate 1/4″ Wonderboard to cabinet grade plywood backers.
• The best all-around glue for making mosaics is Weldbond. It is a water-based adhesive that looks and handles just like plain white glue, yet it cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. The manufacturer’s brochure calls it “the most versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable adhesive on the North American market.” I agree. It bonds to hundreds of different materials and is very water-resistant once it dries. It cleans up easy with soap and water.
• If you make a mistake, don’t be afraid to pry some of the tiles off if you don’t like what you see. (Wear goggles or safety glasses with side shields.)
• I always wait for a week or two before I grout a piece. That way I have a chance to change things before they are literally set in concrete.
• Simple and crude can also be noble. It’s ok if your art has blemishes and mistakes. That’s what makes it interesting and keeps it from looking like it was made on an assembly line. Don’t try to make it a perfect reproduction of anything, and you’ll probably be much happier with the time spent and the results.
• Avoid making copies of phony arts-n-crafts stuff. There’s way too much of that around. Make your mosaic YOUR way and it will be genuine art in the highest sense of the word.

Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information

No warranty is implied by these instructions. Use at your own risk. Please wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout. Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Do not overload patio tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table frame can support the overall weight. Copyright 2009 J.E. Moorman. Please link to these instructions freely, but email us if you would like to reproduce them for classes, etc.

There is nothing unique about mosaic grouts. The grouts and sealers used for mosaic artwork are the same ones used for ordinary bathroom tiling, and the techniques of applying the grout are the same. If you are ever uncertain and need information in a pinch, you can ask questions at your local building material store or look at their book on how to tile or bathroom repair, which they usually keep on the same aisle where they sell grout and supplies or in the plumbing department or near the registers. The point is that grouting isn’t rocket science and most handymen and women have done it before.

We carry everything you need to start grouting right away.

Estimating How Much Grout Is Needed

How much grout you need depends on three things: the area of the mosaic = L x W, the thickness of the tiles and the gaps between the tiles. If the tiles are well-spaced (all gaps under 1/4″), then you should be able to cover the entire mosaic of 18″ x 18″ with 2 lbs of grout. This is assuming your tiles are under 3/8″ thick. I always set my mosaic on an old shower curtain or piece of plastic to catch all the wet grout that falls off the side as I’m spreading it. That way I can scoop it up all the dropped grout and re-use it. Otherwise you need a lot more grout because most of it is wasted when it falls on the dirty floor.

If the gaps between your mosaic tiles are greater than 1/8 inch, then you may need grout with sand in it, such as we sell. The sand reinforces the grout to prevent cracking if the gaps are greater than 1/8 inch. Note that standard grout gaps are usually about 1/16 inch.

How to grout a mosaic

Selecting a Grout Color

I always choose a grout color which contrast the colors of the mosaic tiles so that the design is highlighted. Otherwise the individual tiles run together and are lost to the eye, and the mosaic looks more like an ordinary picture and less like a mosaic made from pieces. I avoid situations like gray grout with gray tile. A nice red-brown terra cotta grout works better in that instance. The key concept is color contrast instead of matching colors.

Color is best provided by the tile, not the grout. In terms of a visual element, the grout is supposed to act like a thin gray pencil line whose only purpose is to make each tile distinct. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a mosaic that used colored grout that wouldn’t have looked better if all tile had been used instead. For example, let’s say you wanted red tile in pink grout. A better way to get the same color effect would be to mix in a few pink tiles randomly throughout the red tiles, or maybe use a few lines of pink tiles. Often this means you have to cut your tile just a little bit smaller. That being said, it is possible to dye grout.

Dyeing Grout

There are mineral concrete dyes sold at building material stores, and these can be used, although the range of colors is limited to black, brown, gray, terracotta, etc. Vegetable dyes such as food colors will not work. You can use artists acrylic paint to color grout by mixing it in the wet grout. I recommend experimenting with tiny batches of grout and letting it harden before grouting a mosaic you have worked many hours on.

The Best Grout Color

Sometimes it is hard to decide which color grout to use because your mosaic already contains so many colors. The best color grout to use for most mosaics is black. Here’s why: The purpose of grout in visual terms is to make each tile distinct in the same way a pencil line in a watercolor is used to provide definition but not color. Black provides just enough contrast to most colors, unless you have black tile, and then you might want to consider something else.

Avoid pure white unless you are trying to make something that looks like a little kid’s summer camp project. Most building material stores such as Lowes and Home Depot cary about 30+ colors of grout. We carry the most commonly needed colors. Bring a few of each color of your tiles with you, and you can pick the color grout that works best with all the tile.

Grouting Stone Tile and Unglazed Ceramic

You should always seal unpolished stone and unglazed ceramic tiles with a tile and grout sealer BEFORE you grout. This is necessary for all porous materials that can be stained by grout. You should seal using a Stone Enhancer instead of tile and grout sealer if you want to darken and enhance the natural color of the stone. Both of these products are available at local building material stores. For a stone mosaic that is already stained, you might want to try some of the muratic acid that contractors use to clean cement from bricks.

Cracking and Crumbling Grout

You shouldn’t let the grout dry out as it cures. Cover with plastic if necessary. Lightly mist with a spray bottle, but don’t let drops accumulate on the surface of the grout. It also helps if you mix the grout according to instructions. It should be like a thick moist dough when you start with no dry material or lumps, and it should stick to your mixing wand, not drip, slide or crumble off.

Sanded Grout vs. Unsanded Grout

Don’t use unsanded grout. Unsanded grout is only used to fill hairline cracks. (Or it is mixed with sand for normal use.) If you use unsanded grout, then you can expect cracks in your grout and grout that isn’t quite as hard and durable.

Note: some tutorials incorrectly advise against using sanded grout because it might scratch the tile during grouting. Very few high quality mosaic materials will be soft enough to be damaged in this way, and you shouldn’t be using such easily scratched materials in any functional setting (bathrooms, counters, table tops et cetera…). Some ‘craft’ materials may have softer glazes which could be scratched by sand, but if you grout carefully the issue is easily avoided. There is no need to use a lot of force when grouting. If you have doubts about the durability of your materials, make a small test piece first.

If you decide to use unsanded grout, be sure to understand exactly why you are using it instead of the the stronger alternative.

Disposal of Grout Waste

Never pour grout down your drains. Grout is concrete, and that isn’t good for your plumbing. It will clog the pipes. I make a point of pouring as much of my grout sludge in an old cardboard box and allowing it to harden for disposal as solid waste. I always just dilute the dirty grout water and pour it in on my compost heap. The grout is a limestone product, so it actually helps balance the pH when there is excess decaying organic matter. Of course, this only applies to traditional grouts. I am not familiar with the synthetic epoxy grouts that some craft sites are selling. For easy cleanup, I always do my grouting in the backyard instead of indoors.

An example of how to design, tile and grout an outdoor mosaic on a cement backer.

The following is a case study of an outdoor mosaic by David Cater, using work-in-progress photos taken by the artist. We have a separate page which summarizes our general instructions for outdoor mosaics, but the example below gives lots of insight.

I was deeply touched by David’s project, especially how he hand set each tile. My first mosaic was made almost in a trance state where I had no concern for efficiency or how much work it took. I hand chipped broken china with an ordinary claw hammer and didn’t even take the time to get a tile nipper, even though that tool would have save me hours and hours. It really was a labor of love, and I see that in David’s project too.

In the text below, I explain how David executed his project, but I also make comments on how the mosaic could have been made with less labor.

Easy Method to Transfer and Enlarge Drawings

Simply use a ruler to draw a grid on your sketch. Then draw another grid on your larger surface. Notice that each square of the grid on the drawing contains just a little part of the drawing, usually just a few curved lines. Draw these same curved lines in same square of the large grid. You don’t even have to think about what you are drawing. Just copy what’s in each square, one square at a time. This makes it easy to enlarge and transfer outlines.