Mosaic tile and improvised mosaic tile can be obtained cheaply from various sources: returns to building material stores, construction dumpsters and home renovations, old dinnerware from thrift stores and garage sales, lawn and garden stores (for rounded river pebbles and crushed stone), bottles from recycling centers, etc. Rock tumblers are useful for processing some of this material, but some of it can be used as obtained (or with a little cutting). However, vitreous glass and recycled glass tile can actually be more affordable, especially if you consider the time spent reclaiming and preparing material for use in a mosaic.
For molded glass mosaic tile, the best value is usually the 3/4″ vitreous glass tile, which is highly recommended for beginners because it is easy to cut and different brands can be used together in the same mosaic. This is a key point because artists often have to source from different brands to get all of the colors they need due to temporary shortages at a particular manufacturer. MorjoTM Vitreous Tile is the most affordable vitreous tile available, and also comes in 3/8″ mini size tiles.
Another important point about vitreous glass tile is that it is NOT limited to beginners or craft projects. Much of the artwork featured on this website was created by professional artists using vitreous, including the naturalistic mosaic portraits done by Harjeet Singh Sandhu.
Lastly, glass mosaic tile is impervious to water, and therefore frost proof and suitable for outdoor use.
You can view many fantastic artworks made with vitreous glass tiles on our Mosaic Artists Gallery.
Natural undyed minerals, crystals, and stones for use in mixed-media mosaics with other found objects that are attached by pressing into thinset mortar or concrete. Do not expect these to be attached or grouted in the same way as flat tiles. Use these stones as accents and not as coverage for large areas. Do not order is your project cannot tolerate variance in size and shape. Individual pieces will vary from the photo, which is only meant to be representative.
Rough Minerals In Mosaic Art
Avoid Grout Staining
Crystals are fairly resistant to staining, but other unpolished minerals are easily stained by grout, just as seashells and other porous materials are. That is why mixed-media mosaics made from porous materials are not grouted. Instead, these type of objects are pressed into a layer of thinset mortar applied with a small trowel or palette knife. Use enough thinset to ensure that some of it squeezes up into the gaps between objects but not so much that is covers the object.
Product Coverage
Rough minerals are not sold for area coverage, and there is no way to give an objective answer to how much area a bag could cover even if every bag contained identical pieces. Why? No two artists would ever position or nest the same set of irregularly-shaped pieces in the same way. Irregularly-shaped objects do not necessarily look best when mounted side by side like flat tile. Instead, most artists tend to position them in partially upright postures that stick out from the surface of the mosaic. Also, these materials are usually nested with pieces partially leaning on neighbors. The extent to which pieces partially overlap each other is a subjective decision.
Compatibility
Most of our glass mosaic tile is about 1/8 inch thick, and rough chunks of minerals and crystals are significantly thicker, but they can be used in the same mosaic provided the artist understands that the unpolished minerals cannot be grouted in the same manner as the tile.
Cutting Rough Minerals
Different mineral types can be cut with varying degrees of success using a Compound Tile Nipper, but be aware that some crysals and semiprecious stones may break in unpredictable ways rather than cut cleanly. Avoid designs that require precise cuts. Use designs that take advantage of natural shapes, and if there is a rough edge that needs to be hidden, press that side into the mortar. A Marble File can be used to smooth rough edges.
Product Specifications
1/2 pound of natural undyed material.
size and shape varies by batch.
piece count varies by batch.
Found-Object Mosaic Art
Mosaic artists experienced with flat tile only should carefully read the information above before using minerals and other non-flat objects. These materials are not difficult to use in mosaic art, merely different from flat tile. Each piece is best thought of as a unique object instead of stock material that can be cut up precisely as needed.
How To Make Mosaic Art
For more advice on designing your mosaic project or mounting, cutting, and grouting tile, please see our page of Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions or our Mosaic Information Guide, which lists instructional pages described by topic. We also post new articles about making mosaics at our How to Mosaic Blog.
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Small Polished Gemstones are natural undyed stone sold in 1/4 pound lots. There are approximately 40 to 60 pieces per 1/4 pound. Piece size ranges from approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Gemstones have natural variation in their exact color, pattern, and shape. Do not order if that is a problem. Gemstones should be used as accents not area coverage. Coverage varies based on how the gemstones are nested and whether or not they are placed on end or flat.
Product Specifications
tumble-polished natural undyed gemstones.
material can vary by color and pattern.
price is per 1/4 pound.
approximately 40 to 60 pieces per 1/4 pound.
Piece sizes range from approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
Natural Material
We do not sell dyed gemstones. All of our stones are natural material that has been rounded and smoothed by tumbling in silicon carbide grit and then polished with metal oxide.
Product Variation
The gemstones we sell have been running fairly consistent over the years, but there is always the potential for pattern, color, and roundness to vary slightly from the product photographs.
Product Coverage
There is no straightforward answer to coverage for materials that are irregular in shape such as the gemstones. Certain pieces will be thin, and these do not always look right when you position them flat next to a piece that is much fatter or rounded. For this reason, the thin pieces are usually nested on end, or at least semi-overlapped, which is best accomplished by pressing them into thinset mortar (but can be done with glue as well). Nesting or overlapping the gemstones on end means that they cover less area than they would if laid flat, and that is why they are mostly used for accents in mixed-media mosaics instead of covering areas.
Area coverage would probably be about 2 to 3 square inches per 1/4 pound maximum, but probably less if you nest them a little as recommended. If you are serious about using gemstones for area coverage in a large mosaic, we strongly recommend first ordering a few units and making a prototype of your mosaic, maybe a small section 2 inches x 2 inches.
Compatibility
These can be used in mosaics with regular flat glass mosaic tile. Most pieces are fatter than 1/8-inch thick tile, and their raised rounded surfaces can add a dimensional element to an otherwise flat mosaic. However, thin pieces should be oriented so that they aren’t covered by grout. You can use sand and glue to “shim up” thin pieces so that they are level with surrounding tile. If you are interested in using a lot of irregularly-shaped objects instead of flat tile, then consider using thinset mortar instead of glue. Thinset is sticky concrete, and you can press glass marbles and gemstones and other globular objects into it, which is a lot easier than trying to glue them to a flat surface.
Cutting Polished Gemstones
Cutting tumbled gemstones tends to mar their polished surfaces and is usually not done. We have cut some varieties of our gemstones in half with Tile Nippers and then glued them cut side down, which was conveniently flat. All that being said, the gemstones are different types of minerals, and some may be extremely hard or likely to shatter instead of cutting cleanly. As always, test your materials and methods before planning a large project around them.
How To Make Mosaic Art
For more advice on designing your mosaic project or mounting, cutting, and grouting tile, please see our page of Mosaic Frequently Asked Questions or our Mosaic Information Guide, which lists instructional pages described by topic. We also post new articles about making mosaics at our How to Mosaic Blog.
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For environmental, economic and political reasons, it is increasingly important to purchase materials produced here in the United States. In the long run, it doesn’t benefit anyone to ship jobs where people and the environment are exploited for short-term gains, and it makes little sense to throw away our manufacturing base, which is the real source of any nation’s economic strength.
Fortunately, some of the most colorful and beautiful art glass in the world is made in America.
Real Stained Glass
Our stained glass is made by four different American manufacturers.
This is NOT the cheap chips of barely-tinted glass commonly sold in assortments for craft projects.
Our stained glass is proudly made by Kokomo, Spectrum, Armstrong, and Wissmach right here in the US, and it has much greater color density, opacity and consistency than art glass produced in Asia.
There are several reasons to use stained glass in your mosaics. First of all, stained glass isn’t grainy like most varieties of vitreous glass mosaic tile. The colours are much richer and more luminescent than vitreous, and this is true even when comparing muted and less-intense colors like gray or olive. Unlike fully-opaque tile, most stained glass is partially translucent which allows light to penetrate into the glass and produce maximum color.
Another reason to use stained glass is that it comes in larger pieces, and you can hand cut your own individual tiles with slightly irregular shapes. This gives a mosaic a more authentic handmade look, which can be difficult to achieve when using machine-molded square tile.
However, stained glass has more or less the same thickness as vitreous glass mosaic tile, and that means it is possible to use both materials in the same mosaic, provided no sharp edges are left exposed.
The main safety concern with stained glass is the potential for sharp edges, which are sharper than most other types of tile, but this problem can be minimized by taking care to install the tile flat and flush, and then grout thoroughly.
Dual-Grit Rubbing Stones and Marble Files are useful for reducing sharp edges on hand-cut tile.
American-Made Glass Mosaic Tile
The glass gems we sell are made in the USA.Glass gems are blobs of glass that look like large beads of water: rounded domes that are flat on the bottom. They can be used as an improvised form of glass mosaic tile and work well as accents in stepping stones and mixed-media mosaic.
Most brands of glass gems can only be used in vases and other containers because their colors are too faint to show up well when the gems are laid out flat.
Our glass gems were chosen for their luminous colors and pigment density. They were made by Marble King in the US in their Paden City, West Virginia plant, and they knock the socks off most glass gems made in Asia.
Ceramic Number and Letter Tile
CowTown Ceramics makes these ceramic letters and numbers.Ceramic Letter and Number Tile sets are made in the US by CowTown Ceramics. The letters and numbers come in sheets that are easily snapped apart by hand to produce individual embossed letter and number tiles. These are great for mixed media mosaic projects like stepping stones, mosaic “samplers” with quotes, and address plaques.
Weldbond is a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) adhesive, and there are other brands of PVAs on the market.
Why is Weldbond preferred by many mosaic artists, and why does Mosaic Art Supply’s online information refer to Weldbond as “the best” mosaic adhesive?
Weldbond is thick, and the extra viscosity can be invaluable for taking the frustration out of doing detailed mosaic work. It’s nearly impossible to avoid bumping tiles as you work, and the thicker the glue, the less they move.
Strength and Durability
Like most any water-based adhesive, Weldbond ruins if it freezes before use, but the following explains why we recommend Weldbond based on its strength in cold weather.
Weldbond Adhesive 160ml (5.4oz) the best mosaic glue made.
Artist Joe Moorman decided to carry Weldbond when he started Mosaic Art Supply in 2002. It was the thickest, strongest PVA adhesive he had ever used, and he had learned from other artists that Weldbond had been certified for use in space by NASA, where adhesives need to withstand cold temperatures.
Joe paid for his engineering degree by working a sequence of internships for a major aerospace company. One of the internships was in materials testing lab, where Joe observed how effective cold temperatures were for destroying things, including sophisticated high-performance aerospace adhesives.
Joe figured that since Weldbond was made in Canada, the people making and testing it probably had more first-hand experience with glues becoming brittle and cracking in low temperatures. Also, the certification by NASA for use in space had to mean that Weldbond had been well tested by a third party, possibly several parties.
Joe recommends Weldbond now more than ever because he has been able to see how well his own mosaics have lasted, even the unfinished and abandoned pieces that have been stored in outside garages for years.
In early 2011, Joe attempted to recycle an unfinished, ungrouted mosaic made on a 2 ft x 4 ft plywood panel back in 2005. The mosaic was soaked in water and detergent for a month or two, but most of the materials (glass, ceramic and stone) had to be pryed of with a screwdriver, and even the small pieces usually broke instead of coming free from the Weldbond.
Mosaic Art Supply sells Weldbond in convenient 160 ml and 420 ml bottles for studio work and 3 litre jugs for more economical refills.
Weldbond securely bonds to wood, glass, fabric, linoleum, styrofoam, concrete and other art materials. It is water-based, non-toxic, dries clear and is very water-resistant when fully cured.
Summaries of some of the most important tools and supplies we offer for working with mosaic tile.
The mosaic supplies you need depend on the type of mosaic tile you are using (glass or ceramic or stone) and how you plan to install them. Five minutes of reading can save you five hours of frustration on your mosaic project.
For a complete listing of tweezers, sponges, gloves, dental picks, spatulas, etc., visit our mosaic tools page.
The glass cutter nips off pieces of glass.
Mosaic Glass Cutter
The most important tool for working with glass mosaic tile is the Mosaic Glass Cutter, which is a compression tool like a tile nipper, but the replaceable blades are shaped like wheels.
While a regular tile nipper tends to crush and splinter glass tile, the Mosaic Glass Cutter allows the artist to make cleaner, more precise cuts. (Tile Nippers were made for ceramic materials.) With proper use, the wheel-shaped blades stay sharp and effective for hundreds and hundreds of hours of use.
An amazing product. Weldbond is a water-based adhesive that looks and handles just like plain white glue yet cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. The manufacturer’s brochure calls Weldbond “the most versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable adhesive on the North American market.” We don’t think this is an exaggeration. Weldbond is probably the most-used adhesive among mosaic artists with no close second. It bonds to hundreds of different materials and is very water-resistant once it dries.
The new 160ml bottle (pictured) is light weight and easy to handle, but we also sell a 420ml bottle and 3 litre jug. We recommend using the jug to refill one of the smaller bottles. Easy clean-up with soap and water.
Note that Weldbond is very water resistant but not water proof. Artists use Weldbond for back-splashes and vertical surfaces where water can drain off, but you shouldn’t use it for shower floors or pools or fountains. For outdoor and wet mosaics, use thinset mortar instead of adhesives.
Sanded grout. Just add water.
Grout
Our grout is a traditional portland-cement grout that includes sand. Sand is needed for strength when the gaps between tiles are 1/8″ or greater, but sanded grout can also be used when the gaps are smaller. All of the mosaics at the Riverson gallery were made with sanded grout.
Choosing A Grout Color
Grout can totally change the look of a mosaic, and it is possible to ruin a mosaic with the wrong color grout. To make the individual tiles stand out visually, you have to choose a grout color that CONTRASTS the colors of the tiles. Avoid choices like grey grout with grey tile. In my experience, a grout with some color almost always looks better than white grout.
How Much Grout Do I Need?
The amount needed depends as much on the gaps between the tiles as it does the total area. If your gaps are the standard 1/16 inch, then you will probably use less than 1 lb. of grout per square foot. If you have thick tile with large gaps, you could use over 1.5 lb. Keep in mind that you have to budget extra for all of the wasted grout that falls off the sides of the mosaic.
Fiberglass Mesh
Fiberglass mesh can be used for laying down tile in advance for rapid installation.
Ceramic and Marble File
Ceramic and marble file for smoothing and shaping sharp edges formed by cutting tile.
Grouting Bags
Grouting Bags are for dispensing grout and thinset neatly for detailed work.
Compound Tile Nipper
Compound Tile Nipper for cutting extremely hard tile, porcelain, and stone.
Picking the correct adhesive or glue is a very important decision when starting a mosaic, possibly the most important. If you choose the wrong one, your mosaic will not last as long as it should.
The best way to make a decision is to understand the different choices of adhesives and which ones works better with certain surfaces and tesserae. The primary deciding factor will be where the mosaic will live once it is complete: indoors or outdoors.
Indoor mosaic glue
Most mosaics intended for indoor use such as this mirror can be made using Weldbond and sanded grout.
Weldbond Adhesive 160ml (5.4oz) the best mosaic glue made.
Weldbond is the best. It’s a water based PVA glue, has no fumes, dries clear and water resistant, bonds to most any surface, is non-toxic and cleans up easily. We’ve extensively tested it, which you can read about here. However, I prefer to use thinset bonding mortar for floors. It gives a more stable and durable walking surface and better resists water seepage when cleaning the floors.
Outdoor mosaic glue
Thinset is the best adhesive for outdoor mosaics such as this garden stone.
In choosing adhesive for outdoor mosaics, it’s probably best to avoid adhesives altogether and use thinset mortar (a sticky concrete with added polymers) instead. To use thinset, you should read and follow the instructions on the package for mixing, handling and disposal. We also have a guide to using thinset. In brief, thinset is like grout and other concrete products. This means that the best place to mix them up is outside, and you should wear a dust mask if have trouble mixing it up without creating a lot of dust. (Our artists merely stand upwind and mist it with a spray bottle until they get it mixed up.)
I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it out to about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the bucket covered so that it doesn’t dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from time to time and a dry rag in my lap.
Marbles and round stones can be a challenge. Unless they are being pressed into cement face-up on a horizontal surface like stepping stones, the right adhesive choice is important. You may be able to use a thick cosntruction adhesive for this purpose, though it isn’t recommended to do this for outdoor mosaics. It is probably best to use thinset in these cases.
Understanding Different Types of Mosaic Adhesives
PVA Glues
PVA glues like Welbond are water soluble adhesives that will clean up with water. PVA glues should not be used on any outdoor project. Even if it isn’t exposed to rain, humidity can also loosen the bond. When working in the indirect method, PVA glue can be used to adhere tiles to fiberglass mesh. It also bonds well with any type of tile and wooden or acrylic surfaces. Again, Weldbond is the best and it dries clear.
Thinset Mortar
Thinset is a sticky cement which can be messy to work with, but it is necessary for outdoor projects if you want them to hold up. It can be found at any hardware store, and is often only sold in large quantities. The best surfaces for thinset are porous, such as cement, cement backerboard, and wood and terracotta. To use with non-porous surfaces like glass, the thinset has to be mixed with admixes instead of water, which are either latex or acrylic liquids that make the thinset sticky. Premixed thinset is not as good as dry mix.
Stained glass was glued with clear silicone to square pieces of clear glass to make these sun catchers.Silicone
Silicone is used most often on glass surfaces because it comes in transparent varieties. It usually comes in a caulking tube and can take some time to get used to. It is difficult to remove and if you apply too much, it will come up between the tiles and make grouting more difficult and incomplete. When used under larger sheets, the areas towards the inside may never cure completely.
Epoxy
Epoxy is used on metal surfaces, but works on wood and glass also. It can hold up outdoors in ideal conditions, but it is very difficult to use and has a noxious odor. Once it is mixed, it must be used quickly. But when it is used successfully and correctly, it is a very strong adhesive and it dries clear.
Other Glues
In speaking with other mosaic artists, you will likely find that everyone has their own preferences for adhesives and that they are used in different ways from artist to artist. Understanding the characteristics of each type of adhesive will help you in finding the best solution for you in your various projects. When working with a new glue, be sure it is what you need for your project. Is it for interior or exterior, is it toxic, and will it work with your surface? Other than Welbond, the most popular brands for mosaics are Liquid Nails, MacGlue, and Gorilla Glue. Once you’ve experimented with several types of adhesives, you will get a feel for what you prefer and what works best.
NOTE
Always clean up excess glue before you grout. After water soluble glue has dried for a day or two, I come back and mist the mosaic with water. After about 10 minutes, any traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. I then take a razor knife like a box cutter or exacto knife and trim away the excess glue. This cleaning step ensures that there will be no glue sticking up and not covered by grout.
We receive school, church and camp project questions every week, so we know how to make things easy and help you save money!
Project Ideas for Kids
The 3/8-inch vitreous tile is recommended when cutting is to be avoided, but keep in mind that the 3/4-inch size is cheaper and can easily be cut into quarters that are the same size as the 3/8-inch tile. For more ideas on how to source inexpensive materials, click here.
Mario Gamer Mosaic Art second view by Jason Oakley.
Many types of tile can be easily used to create fun and simple to design ‘pixel art’ style mosaics based on your own designs or even video game characters. Students can be instructed how to make their designs on graph paper in colored pencil before laying them out in tile using a grid. We carry grids in most common sizes to make the process painless!
Outdoor Mosaic Patio Table with bench seats by Naomi Haas.
Benches, tables and other outdoor furniture are popular group projects for kids. We have a ton of information on our blog about outdoor mosaic materials an methods. Keep in mind that the materials used for a mosaic which is to survive exposure to the elements aren’t the same as indoor mosaics. Review our guide on outdoor mosaic for details.
Coaster sized mosaics can be a simple and satisfying mosaic for all ages.
For smaller projects, coaster sized mosaic bases can be used to great effect! The designs can be very simple and freely executed with much satisfaction. In fact, this type of small project can be a fantastic, low stress introduction to mosaic for kids and adults alike.
All children should be given adequate adult supervision. Wear safety glasses with side shields when cutting glass or mixing grout.
While many forms of mosaic involve cutting glass with cutters, nippers or pistol-grip cutters – uncut tiles can be handled safely and used to build a satisfying mosaic without cutting. However, children should be instructed in sound handling practice, as even a molded tile can occasionally have a sharp edge.
Our line of 12mm Morjo tile is easy to handle with safe rounded edges.
It also comes in a full spectrum of colors as well as iridescent varieties.
Note that it is often easiest to grout the children’s mosaics for them outside the class or session for several reasons. First, the glue needs to dry a day or two before you grout. Also grouting is the messy and mildly hazardous part, and the focus of the children’s work should be the creation of their own unique design and gluing the tiles. Many instructors report having some of the older children help with some of the labor of grouting with great success, but all agree that having an entire class play with wet concrete is a bad idea, especially with young children. Always read manufacturer’s safety instructions on grout and glue. Keep in mind that even whole glass tile can be sharp due to occasional chips and breaks that occur with shipping and handling.
How to Save Money on Mosaic Projects
Grout
Grout can be purchased cheaply in large bags at building material stores. Our packages are small convenience packs for individual projects, and they require a shipping charge to get to you.
Mosaic Backers
A popular project for church and camp mosaics is a 6-inch x 6-inch mosaic trivet. The best backer for 6×6 trivets is 1/2-inch cabinet-grade plywood which comes pre-sanded. We sell plywood mosaic backers for small projects, but you can buy a sheet of plywood and skill saw to cut it much more cheaply than you could buy the expensive backers from one of the craft websites! Ask one of the parents or a friend if they could cut up the plywood. Someone probably already has a saw and a truck to pick up the plywood.
Glue
Instead of buying a separate convenience bottle of glue for each child, you should buy a jug of Weldbond glue and pour a little bit for each child in a styrofoam plate. They can use popsicle sticks to apply the glue.
Mosaic project kits may at first seem like an easy solution, but most popular kits we’ve reviewed have poor quality materials (sometimes even plastic tiles!) in quantities that make them much more expensive than ordering individual materials would be. It’s much better to plan the project out and order all the materials at once, avoiding extra shipping charges. Furthermore, kits are usually marketed with eye catching ‘results’ that can leave a young mind disappointed and stifle their self expression. Joe has stated about craft kits in general, “The kits were about producing over-the-top results instead of experiencing a traditional art form in the way it had been experienced for generations. But even that statement does not adequately explain what was wrong. The kits were about PROMISING over-the-top results, but they were pretty weak in the delivery.”
How to Order Supplies as a School, Church, Camp or other Organization
We accept purchase orders! Read our Purchase Order instructions by clicking here.
Questions, Concerns & Project Advice
Still have unanswered questions about your project or how to order? We’re happy to help with any step of the project. Contact us via email by clicking here. We respond to e-mails faster than any other type of inquiry!
Mosaic techniques for outdoor table tops, patio floors, fountains or birdbaths
Outdoor Mosaic Patio Table with bench seats by Naomi Haas.
Indoor vs. Outdoor
Our regular mosaic instructions page is written for indoor mosaics not subject to standing water such as a shower floor. For these indoor mosaics, wood can be used as a backer, and we recommend the “glue-then-grout” method using Weldbond glue, a water-based PVA adhesive with no fumes.
However, outdoor mosaics and wet mosaics like pools and fountains require different backers and cements. First, wood should never be used as a backer for outdoor mosaics, even those kept relatively dry. The reason is that wood swells and contracts due to humidity changes in the air, and tiles will start to fall off eventually, and usually sooner than expected. Instead of wood, use 1/4″ concrete backer board for your outdoor mosaic projects. For attaching the tiles, use thinset mortar instead of adhesive. Thinset and concrete backer board is available at building material stores.
All that being said, if you do want to mosaic something wooden for outdoors, such as a mosaic birdhouse, use thinset mortar to attach the tiles and make sure that every surface of the birdhouse not covered in mosaic is covered in multiple coats of exterior paint. You should seal the mosaic with multiple applications of a tile and grout sealer a few days after the grout cures. Even then, the life expectancy of such a project will be relatively short if exposed to the elements.
Outdoor Backers
Do not use wood as a backer for outdoor mosaics. Use 1/4″ concrete backer board, which is available at building material stores and is cut by scoring with box cutter and snapped along a straight edge. Masonry, concrete and stone are also good outdoor mosaic backers. Masonry can be smoother by plastering with thinset a few days (preferably 2 weeks) before the mosaic is applied. Fieldstone and pre-made concrete stepping stones from the lawn and garden center are good for smaller projects such as mosaic plaques and mosaic stepping stones. All stone, masonry and concrete should be scoured with a wire brush prior to applying thinset in order to remove contaminant and invisible concrete sealers which could interfere with bonding.
Avoid the use of terracotta bases for outdoor mosaics, as they can be extremely susceptible to freezing damage.
Terracotta flower pots are highly vulnerable to freeze damage because they are soft and porous. The damage could have been minimized by sealing the pot inside and out with a tile and grout sealer.
Use thinset mortar instead of adhesives for outdoor mosaics. Most people find it is easier to mix up small batches of thinset than it is to use a solvent-based adhesive.
We use Versabond brand thinset which comes in a 50-pound bag. Buy a 5-gallon plastic bucket with lid at the same store you buy the thinset and put the bag directly into the bucket without emptying it (which would create an enormous amount of dust). The bucket helps contain dust and keeps humidity from ruining the mortar over time. Slit the top of the bag and use a long-handle spoon or garden shovel or ice scoop to take out what you need. The mixing ratio is 1/4 cup water per pound. Wear a dust mask and scoop and mix the thinset outdoors.
For outdoor projects, we will often use thinset mortar for grouting. We do this for two reasons: the thinset will match any thinset that squeezed up between the tiles, and thinset is harder than grout.
Outdoor Tiles
Glass tile is impervious to moisture penetration and therefore resistant to freeze damage. On the other hand, unglazed ceramic and tumble-finished stone are porous and highly susceptible to freeze damage. We avoid soft ceramics for use outdoors and always seal our finished mosaic with multiple applications of sealer to prevent damage. Even if glass tile is used, the porous grout is still vulnerable, so we always seal with multiple applications.
Outdoor Sealers
Outdoor mosaics should be sealed to protect against staining and freeze damage. There are two types of tile and grout sealers: penetrating pore sealer and coatings that form a membrane on the surface. Penetrating sealers soak into the pores of the grout, stone and ceramic. These pore sealers are usually made of latex or silicone, and they’re invisible. The membrane-forming sealers are coatings that create a hard, glossy finish and may change the color of the grout (usually by making it look darker). Concrete sealers tend to be of this second type.
TileLab SurfaceGard Penetrating Sealer made by Custom Building Products is a high-quality penetrating sealer. It’s water based, easy to apply, cleans up easily, and repels dirt, water, oil and stains. When applying a sealer, let it dry for two hours and then apply a drop of water to a grout line. If the water beads instead of soaking in, the grout is adequately sealed, which can usually be accomplished in two coats. I always put one additional coat to help ensure I plug any random pinholes.
Outdoor mosaic tables are often made by covering metal patio tables with concrete backer board insets which are then covered in mosaic. For any project using concrete backer board that is left exposed, it is important to seal the bottom and edges of the backer board to prevent water from penetrating the porous concrete. NOTE: You never want to seal any surface before mosaic is applied to it because the sealer will interfere with bonding.
Further Reading
We have tons more info on outdoor mosaic on our blog.
These instructions are for an indoor mosaic not subjected to excess moisture. The mosaic process is similar for outdoor mosaics (such as pools and fountains) but thinset mortar is used outdoors instead of Weldbond adhesive. For wet mosaics such as shower floors, you also need to use thinset. Thinset is a sticky concrete with polymers added for strength, adhesion and water resistance.
More information on outdoor mosaics, specialized topics and advanced mosaic methods can be found on our Outdoor Mosaic Guide.
Our FAQ page also contains additional mosaic instructions, tips on using thinset and answers to many specific mosaic questions. It is constantly being expanded and has solutions for many common mosaic problems. Also, here are some tips on how to avoid disasters while grouting.
For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:
The Mosaic pattern is transferred ready for tiling. This is a dry indoor mosaic, and so the tile can be attached with Weldbond Adhesive. For outdoor and wet mosaics. aconcrete stepping stone or piece of flagstone could be used for a backer and the tiles mounted with thinset mortar.
2. Decide what size mosaic tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design (don’t use 1″ tiles to make details that are 1/2″). Lay a few tiles down just to make sure the colors look right together.
It’s better to take a loose, creative approach to picking colors and textures for your mosaic – a variety of surfaces and color often delights the eye more than even fields of color. Have a look at our Mosaic Artists Gallery for inspiration!
3. Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time. We recommend Weldbond Adhesive. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8 inch or less.
We’ve extensively tested Weldbond, and consider it the most practical adhesive for indoor mosaic projects.
For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on fiberglass mesh (by gluing sparingly with Weldbond adhesive), or you can pick up the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the next step would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and press the sheet of mosaic onto the glue or cement.
See the Mosaic Tips below for more help with your mosaic.
Mosaic Tips from Our Resident Mosaic Artist
Start simple.
Make a small mosaic plaque before you mosaic a wall or floor. That way you can work out your materials and methods before the big job.
How can you draw a design? Simple drawings like those in a coloring book work best. The color and the details come when you add the tile and glass. I always sketch something on paper and then come home and draw a simple cartoon on my plywood or concrete board using a magic marker. If drawing is a sore spot, you can create mosaic patterns easily without drawing as well.
My first rule of grouts is to choose a contrasting color. If you use white grout with white tile or grey grout with grey tiles, then the tiles don’t stand out from the grout, and most of the detail of your design will be lost. When in doubt, black grout is usually the answer.
My personal second rule of grouts is that DARKER GROUTS ALMOST ALWAYS LOOK BETTER. I have almost always been disappointed when using plain white grout. White grout makes a nice mosaic look like a summer camp project! Try an off-white or light beige if you think you need a light color. Also remember that grouts are much darker while they are wet and get lighter as they cure.
Don’t know anything about glues, grouts or tiling? Your local hardware store or handyman is a mosaic expert even though they’ve never made one. (You might not know anyone who has made a mosaic, but you probably know someone who has tiled a bathroom or kitchen. The technical skills are very similar.)
Always wear safety glasses when cutting tile or glass or mixing grout. (Grout is mildly caustic and has sand and grit in it.) Making a mosaic can be fun but you should always be careful.
Grout mosaics outside. It’s a messy process. Look at books on home improvement for basic techniques of grouting if you’re not sure. Keep grout damp as it cures and do not allow it to dry out rapidly, otherwise it will crumble. Remember, the grout is binding water internally in a chemical process as it cure. It is NOT drying.
Keep mosaic tiles and supplies out of reach of children. Use caution when handling the broken glass and ceramics.
Spend a little more time on your mosaic. Don’t rush and don’t think about what you want to make next. It can make a world of difference in your satisfaction.
Avoid plywood as a backer unless you can seal the edges and bottom. Wood materials absorb water over time and warp, and then grout and tiles pop off. You might not be trying to recreate a timeless Roman mosaic that will endure for centuries, but at least make something that will last 2 or 3 years. Use plywood at least 1/2″ thick inside and concrete or concrete board outside. Always use concrete or concrete board as the base of any mosaic that will be walked on. Concrete board can be purchased from building material stores. A common brand name is Wonderboard. For my indoor mosaics, I laminate 1/4″ Wonderboard to cabinet grade plywood backers.
The best all-around glue for making mosaics is Weldbond. It is a water-based adhesive that looks and handles just like plain white glue, yet it cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. The manufacturer’s brochure calls it “the most versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable adhesive on the North American market.” I agree. It bonds to hundreds of different materials and is very water-resistant once it dries. It cleans up easy with soap and water.
If you make a mistake, don’t be afraid to pry some of the tiles off if you don’t like what you see. (Wear goggles or safety glasses with side shields.)
I always wait for a week or two before I grout a piece. That way I have a chance to change things before they are literally set in concrete.
Simple and crude can also be noble. It’s ok if your art has blemishes and mistakes. That’s what makes it interesting and keeps it from looking like it was made on an assembly line. Don’t try to make it a perfect reproduction of anything, and you’ll probably be much happier with the time spent and the results.
Avoid making copies of phony arts-n-crafts stuff. There’s way too much of that around. Make your mosaic YOUR way and it will be genuine art in the highest sense of the word.
Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information
No warranty is implied by these instructions. Use at your own risk. Please wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout. Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Do not overload patio tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table frame can support the overall weight. Copyright 2009 J.E. Moorman. Please link to these instructions freely, but email us if you would like to reproduce them for classes, etc.
Natural undyed minerals, crystals, and stones for use in mixed-media mosaics with other found objects that are attached by pressing into 
Small Polished Gemstones are natural undyed stone sold in 1/4 pound lots. There are approximately 40 to 60 pieces per 1/4 pound. Piece size ranges from approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Gemstones have natural variation in their exact color, pattern, and shape. Do not order if that is a problem. Gemstones should be used as accents not area coverage. Coverage varies based on how the gemstones are nested and whether or not they are placed on end or flat.
