Contact Us

e-mail is the best way to contact us

[email protected] is the fastest way to get help with your order or mosaic project.

We respond to e-mails faster than any other type of inquiry!

Mosaic Art Supply, LLC (warehouse)
2964 Alcove Drive
Scottdale, GA 30079
[email protected]


We do all of our customer service via email. We answer all emails very quickly, and email allows us to understand and answer your questions with much better clarity than you’d ever get from a call center. When you email us, you always talk to a real human who can help you right away.

We’ll never give you a run-around – you’re emails are always answered by our employees right here in the warehouse. The same ones picking, packing and shipping your order.

Email has the added benefit of allowing us to offer project advice, share photos, and links to helpful pages and specific products.

E-Mail Is Best

[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]

If you have trouble sending to the email address above, please email Joe Moorman at the gallery [email protected]

Phone Orders

Placing order via our website is more secure than placing an order over telephone for this reason: When you pay with a credit card on our website, that information is given directly to the payment processor via a safe, encrypted channel. We don’t retain any credit card information at all, so your information is secure in that regard. This is much, much more secure than sending us your payment information over telephone or other means. When we put in the payment info for you, we are transmitting it on the same encrypted channel that is used when you check out. Because of this, it is actually faster to place your order online.

Phone

404-371-4070

Please use email and help us keep your prices low. Our phone is for delivery drivers, and is not regularly monitored. Usually we have a very detailed answer posted online, and we can email you the link in a snap.

The following issues are best resolved by email:

  • tracking numbers
  • where is my order?
  • damaged or missing packages
  • clarification of colors
  • errors in your order
  • returns
  • project advice
  • grout disasters
  • how to order
  • shipping time

Fax

404-795-0444

If you are faxing us a PO order, then please create an order at our website and select MONEY ORDER as the payment option. An order in our website makes sure that your items are not sold to other customers and that the shipping/insurance cost for your PO are correct.

Warehouse Address

Mosaic Art Supply’s warehouse in Scottdale is NOT open to the public for walk-in retail sales.Our insurance policy and our manufacturing activities do not allow uninvited visitors.

Contractor pickup is available for ONLINE orders over $500. Please do not show up without first placing an order online. Our employees cannot allow you to enter without your invoice number.

Warehouse address (no public access): Mosaic Art Supply, LLC 2964 Alcove Drive Scottdale, Georgia 30079

Mosaic Glues

Choosing the right adhesive for your mosaic

Picking the correct adhesive or glue is a very important decision when starting a mosaic, possibly the most important. If you choose the wrong one, your mosaic will not last as long as it should.

The best way to make a decision is to understand the different choices of adhesives and which ones works better with certain surfaces and tesserae. The primary deciding factor will be where the mosaic will live once it is complete: indoors or outdoors.

Indoor mosaic glue

Mosaic Mirror by Natalija Moss
Most mosaics intended for indoor use such as this mirror can be made using Weldbond and sanded grout.
weldbond adhesive 160ml
Weldbond Adhesive 160ml (5.4oz) the best mosaic glue made.

Weldbond is the best. It’s a water based PVA glue, has no fumes, dries clear and water resistant, bonds to most any surface, is non-toxic and cleans up easily. We’ve extensively tested it, which you can read about here. However, I prefer to use thinset bonding mortar for floors. It gives a more stable and durable walking surface and better resists water seepage when cleaning the floors.

Outdoor mosaic glue

Red Stained Glass Flower Flagstone
Thinset is the best adhesive for outdoor mosaics such as this garden stone.

In choosing adhesive for outdoor mosaics, it’s probably best to avoid adhesives altogether and use thinset mortar (a sticky concrete with added polymers) instead. To use thinset, you should read and follow the instructions on the package for mixing, handling and disposal. We also have a guide to using thinset. In brief, thinset is like grout and other concrete products. This means that the best place to mix them up is outside, and you should wear a dust mask if have trouble mixing it up without creating a lot of dust. (Our artists merely stand upwind and mist it with a spray bottle until they get it mixed up.)

I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it out to about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the bucket covered so that it doesn’t dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from time to time and a dry rag in my lap.

See our illustrated grouting tutorial for more details.

At this time, we no longer recommend using a construction adhesives in an outdoor environment. Use adhesives other than thinset at your own risk.

Read more about outdoor mosaic considerations.

Glue for marbles and round stones

Marbles and round stones can be a challenge. Unless they are being pressed into cement face-up on a horizontal surface like stepping stones, the right adhesive choice is important. You may be able to use a thick cosntruction adhesive for this purpose, though it isn’t recommended to do this for outdoor mosaics. It is probably best to use thinset in these cases.

Understanding Different Types of Mosaic Adhesives

PVA Glues

PVA glues like Welbond are water soluble adhesives that will clean up with water. PVA glues should not be used on any outdoor project. Even if it isn’t exposed to rain, humidity can also loosen the bond. When working in the indirect method, PVA glue can be used to adhere tiles to fiberglass mesh. It also bonds well with any type of tile and wooden or acrylic surfaces. Again, Weldbond is the best and it dries clear.

Thinset Mortar

Thinset is a sticky cement which can be messy to work with, but it is necessary for outdoor projects if you want them to hold up. It can be found at any hardware store, and is often only sold in large quantities. The best surfaces for thinset are porous, such as cement, cement backerboard, and wood and terracotta. To use with non-porous surfaces like glass, the thinset has to be mixed with admixes instead of water, which are either latex or acrylic liquids that make the thinset sticky. Premixed thinset is not as good as dry mix.

sun catchers made with silicone
Stained glass was glued with clear silicone to square pieces of clear glass to make these sun catchers.
Silicone

Silicone is used most often on glass surfaces because it comes in transparent varieties. It usually comes in a caulking tube and can take some time to get used to. It is difficult to remove and if you apply too much, it will come up between the tiles and make grouting more difficult and incomplete. When used under larger sheets, the areas towards the inside may never cure completely.

Epoxy

Epoxy is used on metal surfaces, but works on wood and glass also. It can hold up outdoors in ideal conditions, but it is very difficult to use and has a noxious odor. Once it is mixed, it must be used quickly. But when it is used successfully and correctly, it is a very strong adhesive and it dries clear.

Other Glues

In speaking with other mosaic artists, you will likely find that everyone has their own preferences for adhesives and that they are used in different ways from artist to artist. Understanding the characteristics of each type of adhesive will help you in finding the best solution for you in your various projects. When working with a new glue, be sure it is what you need for your project. Is it for interior or exterior, is it toxic, and will it work with your surface? Other than Welbond, the most popular brands for mosaics are Liquid Nails, MacGlue, and Gorilla Glue. Once you’ve experimented with several types of adhesives, you will get a feel for what you prefer and what works best.

NOTE

Always clean up excess glue before you grout. After water soluble glue has dried for a day or two, I come back and mist the mosaic with water. After about 10 minutes, any traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. I then take a razor knife like a box cutter or exacto knife and trim away the excess glue. This cleaning step ensures that there will be no glue sticking up and not covered by grout.

Outdoor Mosaic Project

An example of how to design, tile and grout an outdoor mosaic on a cement backer.

The following is a case study of an outdoor mosaic by David Cater, using work-in-progress photos taken by the artist. We have a separate page which summarizes our general instructions for outdoor mosaics, but the example below gives lots of insight.

I was deeply touched by David’s project, especially how he hand set each tile. My first mosaic was made almost in a trance state where I had no concern for efficiency or how much work it took. I hand chipped broken china with an ordinary claw hammer and didn’t even take the time to get a tile nipper, even though that tool would have save me hours and hours. It really was a labor of love, and I see that in David’s project too.

In the text below, I explain how David executed his project, but I also make comments on how the mosaic could have been made with less labor.



David Cater
David’s initial sketch


David Cater
Laying out the tiles beforehand


David Cater
Complete layout

Concept Sketch

Like most mosaic projects, David’s sidewalk mosaic started as a concept sketch where the street number of his house is incorporated with a cardinal and dogwood design. Note how the red cardinal matches the red of the border, which helps to integrate the picture with the design as a whole. Note how the blue sky and the white dogwood make good contrasts with the red.



Choosing Colors

Color choices are as important as the composition. To save frustration, get your color choices worked out before you attach the first tile. Sometimes it helps just to play with tile laid out on the surface to be mosaiced. I like to draw my cartoon (outline) on the surface and lay the tile in the different areas of the cartoon.

Design tools like color wheels are great for picking out initial choices, but colors usually have to be laid side by side before you can be absolutely certain they work together. This is particularly true when using different shades of each color



Initial Layout

David laid out his design on a sheet of plywood as a temporary surface. Note that David screwed a frame around his work area to define the size of the mosaic and provide a stop for straight edges.

To speed the placement of tile, an outline of the design could have been sketched onto the plywood. Most people have difficulty doing this because they aren’t experienced with drawing. The good news is that you don’t have to be.



Easy Method to Transfer and Enlarge Drawings

Simply use a ruler to draw a grid on your sketch. Then draw another grid on your larger surface. Notice that each square of the grid on the drawing contains just a little part of the drawing, usually just a few curved lines. Draw these same curved lines in same square of the large grid. You don’t even have to think about what you are drawing. Just copy what’s in each square, one square at a time. This makes it easy to enlarge and transfer outlines.

 

Complete Layout

In the above photo, we see that David has his design completely laid out and all tiles positioned, which represents many hours of labor.

At this point, clear contact paper could have been pressed onto the face of the tile to pick the entire mosaic up at once, which would allow the mosaic to be installed rapidly by pressing into thinset mortar. However, one problem with using clear contact paper to pick a mosaic up like this is that individual tile can get out of position while the contact paper is being pressed down. This problem can be minimized by laying out the tile on a nonslip surface, such as a sheet of rubber. That way the tiles can’t easily slip out of place when the contact paper is applied.

Another labor-saving method would have been to lay the mosaic out upside down on brown mosaic paper such as the kind we sell. In that method, the tiles are temporarily glued face-down on paper using a water-soluable glue like Elmer’s Glue. The sheet of mosaic is then pressed into cement, which allowed to harden over night. Then the paper is misted with water and peeled off.

 


David Cater
The area to be mosaiced

Surface Preparation

David poured some new concrete approximately 4 inches thick for his mosaic. Note that the concrete is slightly lower than the surrounding brick so that the surface of the mosaic will be flush with the brick. You can put mosaics on existing cement, but you should use a wire brush to scour the surface to remove any loose sediments and invisible sealers, which could interfere with bonding.

 


David Cater
David transferred the tiles one by one onto the new surface

Mounting Mosaic Tile

David manually transferred each tile from his temporary tray and mounted the individual tile using thinset mortar.

Note that this means David had to manually position each tile twice: once in the tray when he laid up his design and then once again when he sets each individual tile in mortar. That is why using contact paper or mosaic mounting paper to pick the entire mosaic up at once for rapid installation saves an enormous amount of work.

Another technique for speeding the work is to lay the mosaic up on 1/2″ concrete backer board and then cement the entire concrete board in place using thinset mortar. The only caveat would be to make sure the edges of the board aren’t damaged and crumbly. The edges of concrete backer board can be repaired and reinforced using thinset mortar.

 


David Cater
Grouting after all tiles are down

Grouting the Mosaic

Grouting is done by smearing grout across the face of the mosaic and pressing the grout into the gaps between the tile. Indoor mosaics do not require grouting and the tile can be pressed tightly together. Outdoor mosaics must be grouted because the grout keeps water from penetrating between the tile, which is disastrous especially when the water freezes.

Make sure that you press the grout between the tile very thoroughly so that there are no voids or bubbles beneath a thin veneer of grout. This takes some repeated rubbing and pressing on the tile, and this is why you should never grout before the cement or adhesive has been allowed to harden for several days.

Note that a thin haze of grout can be buffed off after the grout has hardened, but most of this excess grout should be removed while still wet. The mosaic in the photo still needs some wiping. Make sure your sponge is damp but not so wet that drops of water could squeeze out and damage the wet grout. Keep your mosaic covered with plastic as it cures or otherwise keep it from drying out. Otherwise the grout will be soft and crumbly. Remember grout and concrete harden by binding water, not by dehydration.

 


David Cater
David’s completed mosaic

Seal Thoroughly

I should also note that outdoor mosaics on horizontal surfaces are particularly vulnerable to moisture and freeze damage because horizontal surfaces allow water to pool. (Keep in mind that the mosaics of the ancient Greeks and Romans lasted for millennia because the Mediterranean is a warm dry climate.) One thing that can be done to minimize this risk is to slightly tilt the otherwise flat surface or to make it slightly round. For example, the seat of a concrete bench can be rounded slightly using a small amount of concrete mortar to build up the center of the seat by approximately 1/2″ and gently sloping down to the edges. Of course, this would need to be done at least a few days before attaching tile.

Regardless of the orientation, all outdoor mosaics should be sealed thoroughly with a tile and grout sealer, taking special care to seal the edges. Multiple applications should be made to ensure that all of the tiny pores in the grout and concrete are sealed. For added strength and stain resistance, you can use a concrete sealer instead of an ordinary tile and grout sealer. Again, the most important points are to take special care to seal the edges and use multiple coats to ensure complete coverage.