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There is nothing unique about mosaic grouts. The grouts and sealers used for mosaic artwork are the same ones used for ordinary bathroom tiling, and the techniques of applying the grout are the same. If you are ever uncertain and need information in a pinch, you can ask questions at your local building material store or look at their book on how to tile or bathroom repair, which they usually keep on the same aisle where they sell grout and supplies or in the plumbing department or near the registers. The point is that grouting isn’t rocket science and most handymen and women have done it before.

We carry everything you need to start grouting right away.

Estimating How Much Grout Is Needed

How much grout you need depends on three things: the area of the mosaic = L x W, the thickness of the tiles and the gaps between the tiles. If the tiles are well-spaced (all gaps under 1/4″), then you should be able to cover the entire mosaic of 18″ x 18″ with 2 lbs of grout. This is assuming your tiles are under 3/8″ thick. I always set my mosaic on an old shower curtain or piece of plastic to catch all the wet grout that falls off the side as I’m spreading it. That way I can scoop it up all the dropped grout and re-use it. Otherwise you need a lot more grout because most of it is wasted when it falls on the dirty floor.

If the gaps between your mosaic tiles are greater than 1/8 inch, then you may need grout with sand in it, such as we sell. The sand reinforces the grout to prevent cracking if the gaps are greater than 1/8 inch. Note that standard grout gaps are usually about 1/16 inch.

How to grout a mosaic

Selecting a Grout Color

I always choose a grout color which contrast the colors of the mosaic tiles so that the design is highlighted. Otherwise the individual tiles run together and are lost to the eye, and the mosaic looks more like an ordinary picture and less like a mosaic made from pieces. I avoid situations like gray grout with gray tile. A nice red-brown terra cotta grout works better in that instance. The key concept is color contrast instead of matching colors.

Color is best provided by the tile, not the grout. In terms of a visual element, the grout is supposed to act like a thin gray pencil line whose only purpose is to make each tile distinct. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a mosaic that used colored grout that wouldn’t have looked better if all tile had been used instead. For example, let’s say you wanted red tile in pink grout. A better way to get the same color effect would be to mix in a few pink tiles randomly throughout the red tiles, or maybe use a few lines of pink tiles. Often this means you have to cut your tile just a little bit smaller. That being said, it is possible to dye grout.

Dyeing Grout

There are mineral concrete dyes sold at building material stores, and these can be used, although the range of colors is limited to black, brown, gray, terracotta, etc. Vegetable dyes such as food colors will not work. You can use artists acrylic paint to color grout by mixing it in the wet grout. I recommend experimenting with tiny batches of grout and letting it harden before grouting a mosaic you have worked many hours on.

The Best Grout Color

Sometimes it is hard to decide which color grout to use because your mosaic already contains so many colors. The best color grout to use for most mosaics is black. Here’s why: The purpose of grout in visual terms is to make each tile distinct in the same way a pencil line in a watercolor is used to provide definition but not color. Black provides just enough contrast to most colors, unless you have black tile, and then you might want to consider something else.

Avoid pure white unless you are trying to make something that looks like a little kid’s summer camp project. Most building material stores such as Lowes and Home Depot cary about 30+ colors of grout. We carry the most commonly needed colors. Bring a few of each color of your tiles with you, and you can pick the color grout that works best with all the tile.

Grouting Stone Tile and Unglazed Ceramic

You should always seal unpolished stone and unglazed ceramic tiles with a tile and grout sealer BEFORE you grout. This is necessary for all porous materials that can be stained by grout. You should seal using a Stone Enhancer instead of tile and grout sealer if you want to darken and enhance the natural color of the stone. Both of these products are available at local building material stores. For a stone mosaic that is already stained, you might want to try some of the muratic acid that contractors use to clean cement from bricks.

Cracking and Crumbling Grout

You shouldn’t let the grout dry out as it cures. Cover with plastic if necessary. Lightly mist with a spray bottle, but don’t let drops accumulate on the surface of the grout. It also helps if you mix the grout according to instructions. It should be like a thick moist dough when you start with no dry material or lumps, and it should stick to your mixing wand, not drip, slide or crumble off.

Sanded Grout vs. Unsanded Grout

Don’t use unsanded grout. Unsanded grout is only used to fill hairline cracks. (Or it is mixed with sand for normal use.) If you use unsanded grout, then you can expect cracks in your grout and grout that isn’t quite as hard and durable.

Note: some tutorials incorrectly advise against using sanded grout because it might scratch the tile during grouting. Very few high quality mosaic materials will be soft enough to be damaged in this way, and you shouldn’t be using such easily scratched materials in any functional setting (bathrooms, counters, table tops et cetera…). Some ‘craft’ materials may have softer glazes which could be scratched by sand, but if you grout carefully the issue is easily avoided. There is no need to use a lot of force when grouting. If you have doubts about the durability of your materials, make a small test piece first.

If you decide to use unsanded grout, be sure to understand exactly why you are using it instead of the the stronger alternative.

Disposal of Grout Waste

Never pour grout down your drains. Grout is concrete, and that isn’t good for your plumbing. It will clog the pipes. I make a point of pouring as much of my grout sludge in an old cardboard box and allowing it to harden for disposal as solid waste. I always just dilute the dirty grout water and pour it in on my compost heap. The grout is a limestone product, so it actually helps balance the pH when there is excess decaying organic matter. Of course, this only applies to traditional grouts. I am not familiar with the synthetic epoxy grouts that some craft sites are selling. For easy cleanup, I always do my grouting in the backyard instead of indoors.

Grout and Glass Mosaic Tiles: How To Avoid Disasters

Many beginners report spending hours or days gluing down tiles only to report that they all start coming off when the apply grout. Others report grout that crumbles or never being able to get all the concrete off the tiles. Here’s how to avoid ruining your mosaic:

1. Always test your adhesive on one or two glass mosaic tiles before you spend days creating a masterpiece. You may occasionally find that the glue doesn’t bond well to the glass or the surface underneath. Simply allow the test tile to cure overnight and try prying it off in the morning. (Wear safety glasses as the tile may splinter.)
2. Seal porous tile such as tumbled stone and unglazed ceramic tile BEFORE you grout. This prevents the grout from staining the porous surfaces. This step isn’t necessary with glass mosaic tile because smooth glass is nonporous.
3. Allow the glue to cure for at least 24 hours before you grout.
4. Use sanded grout if the gaps between tiles are greater than 1/8″ Grout is concrete, and it needs reinforcing the same way that concrete in roads is reinforced with gravel and iron bar. This keeps the grout from crumbling.
5. Make sure that the surfaces of your mosaic tile are relatively level. This usually isn’t a problem with glass mosaic tile because most varieties are relatively flat. However, artistic mosaics on surfaces that aren’t flat (such as a mosaic vase) tend to have corners of tile that stick out. Be gentle with these when you apply the wet grout so that you don’t knock off any tiles. Keep in mind that wet grout may loosen water-based adhesives. Use a water-proof solvent-based adhesive if necessary. Cutting the tile into smaller pieces may also help on rounded surfaces.
6. Mix the grout according to manufacturer instructions. Mix thoroughly. Don’t add too much water. The consistency should be a firm dough.
7. Don’t let the grout dry out as it cures. Grout is like any other concrete. It hardens by hydration, not dehydration. After an hour, mist LIGHTLY with a spray bottle if needed. Don’t spray or drip.
8. Grout is applied by rubbing the grout into the gaps with a spatula, trowel or rubber glove. Press the grout in thoroughly and wipe away the excess. Then make repeated passes with a damp sponge (not dripping wet). Rinse sponge and repeat as needed. This step requires more passes and more care if the surface is uneven or the gaps between the tiles are too large.
9. Don’t erode the wet grout from the gaps between tiles. This exposes sharp edges and looks bad.
10. The day after you grout, you may notice a residue or haze on the surface of the glass mosaic tile. Simply buff this haze away with a clean dry cloth. The last step in grouting is appropriately called “hazing.”

Mosaic Vases

Vases, votives and lamps are popular mosaic projects because they don’t require any extra work to figure out how they will be displayed or hung on the wall. However, they do require a LITTLE extra work because they are usually glass and usually rounded.

Here are some tips for grouting mosaic vases made from glass mosaic tile:

1. If necessary, scuff the vase with sand paper to ensure that the glue bonds securely.
2. Glue can be runny, and tiles can slide off. Simply lean the vase on the side and glue one side at time.
3. Cut the tile small enough so that the flat tile can fit to the rounded vase.
4. Make sure the glue cures for 48 hours or more before grouting.
5. Grout gently.