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ILLUSTRATED MOSAIC INSTRUCTIONS

These instructions are for an indoor mosaics not subjected to excess moisture. The process is similar for outdoor, shower and pool mosaics, but you should probably use thinset, a sticky concrete with polymers added for strength and water resistance. Thinset and other specialized/advanced topics are discussed on our FAQ page.

Search our Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) page for answers to specific mosaic questions. It has been expanded recently, and it has solutions for many common problems. We also have a page for where to find mosaic patterns.

In addition to our FAQ page, our resident mosaic artist has also written some tips and a page on how to avoid disasters while grouting.

For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:

1. Draw a simple "cartoon" (outline) on the surface. You can copy one from a coloring book or your favorite pattern of china or fabric if you aren't an artist 

2. Decide what size tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design. (Don't use 1 inch tiles to make details that are 1/2 inch.) Lay a few tiles down just to make sure the colors look right together. 

3. Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8 inch or less.

4. After the glue cures for 24 hours, grout the mosaic with regular bathroom tile grout.

For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on mesh (by gluing sparingly with Weldbond), or you can pick up the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the next step would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and press the sheet of mosaic onto the glue or cement.

See our FAQ page for information for advanced techniques and methods, such as how to use thinset for outdoor, pool, patio and shower mosaics.

The Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information should be read for questions regarding reproducing this information and the responsibilities of the user. This information is not intended to be a substitute for manufacturer's recommendations or standard safety practices such as wearing gloves, dust masks or safety glasses.

Some Tips from Our Resident Mosaic Artist

  • Start simple.
  • Make a small mosaic plaque before you mosaic a wall or floor. That way you can work out your materials and methods before the big job.
  • How to draw your design to get started? Simple drawings like those in a coloring book work best. The color and the details come when you add the tile and glass. I always sketch something on paper (while bored at work), and then come home and draw a simple cartoon on my plywood or concrete board using a magic marker.
  • The first rule of grouts is to choose a contrasting color. If you use white grout with white tile or grey grout with grey tiles, then the tiles don't stand out from the grout, and most of the detail of your design will be lost.
  • The second rule of grouts (in my opinion) is that DARKER GROUTS ALMOST ALWAYS LOOK BETTER. I have almost always been disappointed when using plain white grout. White grout makes a nice mosaic look like a summer camp project! Try an off-white or light beige if you think you need a light color. Also remember that grouts are much darker while they are wet and get lighter as they cure.
  • Don't know anything about glues, grouts or tiling? Your local hardware store or handyman is a mosaic expert even though they've never made one. (You might not know anyone who has made a mosaic, but you probably know someone who has tiled a bathroom or kitchen before. The technical skills are very similar.)
  • Use a wheeled glass cutter to cut glass and smalti. Use a tile nipper to cut ceramic tiles, china and other dishes.
  • Always where safety glass when cutting tile or glass or mixing grout. (Grout is mildly caustic and has sand and grit in it.)
  • Grout mosaics outside. It's a messy process. Look at books on home improvement for basic techniques of grouting if you're not sure. Keep grout damp as it cures and do not allow it to dry out rapidly, otherwise it will crumble. Remember, the grout is binding water internally in a chemical process as it cure. It is NOT drying.
  • Keep mosaic tiles and supplies out of reach of children. Use caution when handling the broken glass and ceramics.
  • Spend a little more time on your mosaic, don't rush, and don't think about what you want to make next. It makes a world of difference in your satisfaction with your results.
  • Avoid plywood as a backer unless you can seal the edges and bottom. Wood materials absorb water over time and warp, and then grout and tiles pop off. You might not be trying to recreate a timeless Roman mosaic that will endure for centuries, but at least make something that will last 2 or 3 years. Use plywood at least 1/2" thick inside and concrete or concrete board outside. Always use concrete or concrete board as the base of any mosaic that will be walked on. Concrete board can be purchased from building material stores. A common brand name is Wonderboard. For my indoor mosaics, I laminate 1/4" Wonderboard to 3/8" plywood.
  • The best all-around glue for making mosaics is Weldbond. It is a water-based adhesive that looks and handles just like plain white glue, yet it cures stronger than many of the smelly solvent-based glues. The manufacturer's brochure calls it "the most versatile, non-toxic, non-flammable adhesive on the North American market." I agree. It bonds to hundreds of different materials and is very water-resistant once it dries. It cleans up easy with soap and water.
  • If you are serious about your work, don't be afraid to take a day off and then come back and pry some of the tiles off with a screw driver if you don't like what you see. (Wear goggles or safety glasses with side shields.)
  • I always wait for a week or two before I grout a piece. That way I have a chance to change things before they are literally set in concrete.
  • Simple and crude can be noble and elegant. It’s ok that your art has it’s blemishes and mistakes. That’s what makes it interesting, and keeps it from looking like it was made on an assembly line. Don't try to make it a perfect reproduction of anything, and you'll probably be much happier with the time spent and the results.
  • Avoid making copies of phony arts-n-crafts stuff. There's way too much of that around; Make your mosaic YOUR way and it will be genuine art in the highest sense of the word.


Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information.

No warranty is implied by these instructions. Use at your own risk. Please wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout. Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Do not overload patio tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table frame can support the overall weight. Copyright 2003 J.E. Moorman. Please link to these instructions freely, but email us if you would like to reproduce them for classes, etc. Return to Top